Guerillas, Indians, Lost Cities, and a Cocaine Lab

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A trip to ancient Tayrona Indians’ Ciudad Perdida (Lost City) is more like a journey to another world. It’s an intense 6-day uphill trek that can only be described as unique.

On the way up through seemingly boundless dense rainforest one can easily why this country is such an easy place for guerillas to hide. Fortunately, this is now one of the areas that are back in the control of the Colombian government, and the various army posts along the way ensure that the chances of you running into trouble are small.

Along the path, as well as on the actual site of the old civilization’s city (which no doubt must have played some part in the inspiration of the Indiana Jones movies), there are still indigenous Indians living pretty much the same as they did a thousand years ago, still living in their small huts, tending small plots, and dressed in their self-made white cotton clothes and carrying their three distinctive bags on them - one for keeping the fruits they collect, one for personal belongings, and one for coca leaves (still legal for them), which they chew on for extra energy at the high altitudes.

By far the most astonishing part of the trip, though, was when, on the way back down, one of the locals asked us whether we wanted to visit his cocaine lab nearby and see how he makes the cocaine paste from the coca leaves, which he then sells on to the mafiosos.

Well, of course we had to see it!


Odometer at start: 33 900 km
Odometer now: 43 943 km

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Photos

The Guides
Walter: The main guide was one of the original restorers of the site when it was found in 1976.

The Guides
Omar: He was one of the guides when the guerillas kidnapped a group of tourists (4 Israelis, 2 Brits, and a German) at the Lost City almost 4 years ago. He and the less-able tourists (2 obese and 1 faking to be injured) were tied up and left behind, after which Omar managed to cut everyone free when he remembered he had his swiss-knife on him. The other 7 tourists were held hostage by the guerillas for the next 3 months.

The Guides
Vitor: While chatting to him during the hike it seemed kind of strange that he had so much knowledge on cocaine, including the exact ingredients and amounts of each. He later confessed that before becoming a guide he used to work in the cocaine “industry”, but later quit because of the risks of getting caught and the minimal wages (under R30 a day).

Hot!
In this heat you find yourself sweating from places you never knew it was possible to sweat from!

Indian Villages
The women still live separately to the men, and the act of sex, which apparently they somehow do without moving, takes place in a special place of love in the forest and only rarely.

Coca Tea
For a 25-hour day!

Where’s Wally?
We have many fun photos such as this one where you can play the not-so-easy game of “Where’s Pablo the Guerilla Leader?”.

Ahhh Sweet
The Dutch guy in the group proposing to his girlfriend at the top. Fortunately, she said “yes” – otherwise it would have been a really long walk back down.

Keeping the Peace
Army posts are stationed along the hike as well as on top. We were quite unsure on whether seeing them all along the way should make us feel safer or more nervous!

Indians
Still roaming around the Lost City site.

Comments

[anonymous]

Tom that sounds like good business... is that one of the ideas you've come up with lately ?

[Lior]

U forgot 2 add the photos of u and liba with the cocaine smokes in ur mouths :P

[Anoushka]

Tom and Liba!! This is amazing! Im so impressed with the whole trip. Youve inspired me. When did you guys start and how much longer will you guys be doing this for?

[barrygahan]

Can't wait for trek!
Loved your phots and descriptions of the trek. We're doing this hike tomorrow, it looks great.