Celebrating Christmas on a Chiva.

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In the United Kingdom it's traditional for the Christmas lights to be taken down by Twelfth night.
There are two exceptions that I know of.
Me, as I never put any up in the first place and Colombia, where they stretch the Christmas holidays well into the middle of January and beyond.
Christmas isn't huge here.
It's Massive.

Every city, town and village pushes the boat out with lights to celebrate the birth of Christ.

It was just after dusk on a balmy Sunday's evening that I met up with Adriana again. She wanted to visit Pueblito Pais (a typical Medellin village) which was festively festooned with lights.

I'd spent the day taking in a bit of culture, visiting museums, churches and the like. Since my mum died in 2013 I find an inner peace and thoughtful reflection whenever I'm sat in one. My mum led a very Christian life. It might sound strange but I feel her presence when I'm sat quietly thinking about her in a place of worship.

I went to a church whilst visiting Jamaica before travelling here. Invited by some neighbours it was a wonderous morning. Everyone, adults and children alike dressed up to the nines. The gospel choir and the villagers singing their hearts out followed by the sermon. The animated and larger than life preacher breathing fire and brimstone at us for over 40 minutes. Telling us all we were sinners, to repent and follow Jesus.
I live, I hope, by Christian standards, to treat others as I would like to be treated etc, but sorry mate, no born again conversion for me today.
My mum was there though. Clapping along, playing hymns on the organ and enjoying every minute. Rest in peace mum. Miss you.

Pueblito Pais is indeed a traditional village in the old colonial style. Fleeing persecution in their own country, the Basques built their own Spanish village in Colombia. Constructed on a hill rising about 100 meters from the Valley floor it gives a spectacular view of the city at night. The village also boasts a lighthouse. Quite why the town elders decided to build one is unclear, especially as we're 1000 kilometres from the coast!
The Christmas market was in full festive flow. The city lights of Medellin below us. The clear starlit night sky above us. It made for a wonderful evening.

Walking around we bumped into Martha. She'd been Salsa dancing with us the night before. A very hospitable woman aged around 30, with a bug smile and heart. In tow with her was an Argentinean couch surfer, who was staying for a few days.

They were planning to see more Christmas lights around the area riding on a party bus called a 'Chiva'. Being a local, Martha knew where to go to catch one. We all hopped in a cab to a festively lit, decorated district, in downtown.

'A Chiva?' I hear you ask.
It's a bus like no other. A ancient flat bed, 32 tonne lorry with harsh bench seats and a roof. Ryan Air planes may have slightly more leg room, but the gaudy colours inside the cabin are the same as a Chiva. Painted in bright colours, then decorated in the style of any local curry house you'd find on any high street.
Each bus has a name.
Ours was Palomino.

It's was 8 o'clock as we climbed aboard. Full of excitement, armed with beers, salsa music baring out and disco lights creating a party atmosphere. We encouraged the driver 'vamos, Vamos'

The effort and imagination the town councils put in to celebrate Christmas is quite incredible. I imagine most of their budget is spent trying to 'out-do' the neighbouring villages and towns. Rivers lit up with model boats and fish. Giant stars. Christmas trees. Their imagination knows no bounds. With thousands of town and city folk out for the last time before the holidays end it made a great party scene.

After a while we stopped for a drink and food in a small village outside Medellin. At least a dozen other Chivas were in the car park, all packed with party people.

Looky-looky men and women were also lurking around the party buses selling giant cans of party foam.
They made their pitch to the parents of the children on our bus.
The parents promptly bought the lot! Every last can!

The journey home doesn't need much imagination. Each child, armed with several containers of foam the size of watering cans proceeded to spray the entire bus in a white goo. We all turned into snowmen as we partied our way back to the city.

A fitting end to great few days. Covered in white foam, everyone laughing and enjoying themselves in what was once the world's most dangerous city.

A firm 'two fingered' salute to the dark times of the recent past.

Tomorrow I head for Cartagena and the principle reason for coming to Colombia. Unlike Kathleen Turner in 'Romancing the Stone' I just hope I get on the right bus.

Ciao.









Sent from my iPhone

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Photos

Medellin
The city lights from Pueblito Pais

Lighthouse
Lit up to warn ships 1000 kms away. Why they lit it up in such a phallic style is anyone's guess

The river
2kms of lighting above the water.

Ship
Carrying Christmas presents