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Published: January 19th 2020
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SECOND OF SEVEN COUNTRY TOUR OF SOUTH AMERICA
My first (and last) blog ended upon our arrival in Cartagena from 10 days in Mexico City. Cartagena, the old town, is bright, alive and a magical step back in time. Horse drawn carriages on cobblestone streets, colorful colonial buildings with balconies dripping with bougainvillea and Passion flower, smell of Creole spice and coffee lingering in the air...and local women in traditional garb selling fruit from baskets they carry on their heads. Added to this mix are world class restaurants, luxury brand stores, little yellow taxis everywhere...people...lots and lots of people! It’s all a bit overwhelming upon arrival and it didn’t help that several cruise ships had brought hundreds of people ashore the next day.
And, of course, with the arrival of cruise ships came the hordes of hawkers and beggars. The police were very vigilant about keeping the beggars out of the main part of El Centro but the neighborhood of San Diego ( where the workers who serviced the wealthy in El Centro lived) were persistent and pervasive. We went to dinner one evening at La Cevicharia in San Diego (an Anthony Bourdain recommended) and the beautiful hostess asked
the security guard to keep hawkers and beggars away so we could eat in peace. The meal was truly exceptional. Upon leaving the restaurant we were again besieged by beggars, quite a few from Venezuela unfortunately (such a sad situation) that we decided to take a horse drawn carriage back to the apartment. Talk about romantic...
Our Air B&B apartment was in a great location right in the middle of El Centro. An old style colonial building with upgrades like an elevator, air conditioning and small pool on roof top. Original pool was in the open air courtyard on main floor. Very charming, but we were in one of the smallest studios I’ve ever seen. I could open the refrigerator door while lying in bed ( which was actually quite convent...cold water at the ready!)? I had caught a cold in Mexico City and after a 2 airplane travel day to Cartagena, it decided to become a sinus infection. I pretty much stayed low key during the day so Walter would venture out for his daily walk and was able to take in the Museo de Inquisition (not something I wanted to see anyhow), the Window of the Denunciation
of the Heretics and the Museo de Oro. I saved my strength for fabulous dinners at night. Plus, it was much cooler at night, mid-80’s with nice breeze. During the day it was stifling hot, mid-90’s with 90% humidity and no breeze.
After 6 nights, we packed our bags, hailed a taxi to the airport and got our rental car.. The eager young man there helped put in GPS directions to the toll roads to Santa Marta (or so we thought) and we proceeded to drive 45 minutes through downtown traffic to Boca Grande, the complete opposite direction from where we needed to be! Another 45 minutes back through downtown - and the crazy drivers - got us on the toll road freeway with hardly anyone on it. We were told to stay at speed limit as police were looking for speeding tourists but it quickly became apparent that at 80 kilometers per hour (posted speed limit) was not even close to keeping up with the cars that FLEW by us. I will say that the Colombians are some of the worst drivers in the world. Rules of the Road? Only one rule, if you hesitate you lose! Passing
on double yellow lines, around a corner going over a hill...no problem. We even had a car pass BETWEEN US and another car on a two lane road - YIKES! I was a white knuckled, whimpering mess but Walter was my rock and drove with confidence and calmness.
After 2 hours of beautiful 4 lane toll roads we came to Barranquilla, a MASSIVE industrial sea port and university town. The only road through town took us down to the docks where hundreds of huge trucks mingled with pedestrian, bicycles, buses, motorcycles, donkey drawn carts and cars, all merging into two lanes. And round-abouts with 5-6 spokes merging off and on. We got lost several times by missing an exit and had to circle back again amid the chaos and beeping horns and had the “pleasure” of winding through some pretty scary impoverished sections. Thank the Heavens for GPS!!!
After leaving Barranquilla, still on the toll road, it was only 2 lanes and this is where things got really scary! Trucks belching black exhaust going 20 km had to be passed. Cars passing trucks coming at us... Drivers trying to pass us while we’re trying to pass a truck...(our
VW Gol was kick-ass with its 5 speed manual transmission, so could out zip the idiot trying to pass us!). We passed through some lovely arid landscape, some small villages and upon entering the Santa Marta area, some slums right out of Calcutta or Rio. Walter had put our Air B&B address into the GPS but transposed the number 51 to 15, and OPPS! we arrived in the wrong place! Another re-route and 30 minutes later arrived in the funky beach town of Rodadero...where it turns out that it’s a holiday weekend and the place was PACKED with cars, trucks, taxi’s, street vendors and thousands and thousands of lower and middle-class families! The streets were lined with garbage and the smell was over-powering. And the wind was howling, lifting up the dirt and grit and swirling it around. I could hardly wait to get into our 9th floor apartment which turned out to be OK, if a bit on the spartan side. We were famished so we went next door and had a FANTASTIC meal on the first floor balcony overlooking the beach. I had shrimp creole and Walter had black squid ink paella, an appetizer and 4 drinks for
$40 including tip. Went upstairs and CRASHED OUT at 8:30 PM!
Next morning we walked down the beach and found a charming cafe for breakfast, back to apartment to change into swim wear and found an unoccupied “cabana” which we rented for 2 hours for 20,000 peso’s ($6 USD). We enjoyed the people watching but again, we were besieged by hawkers. One very clever lady just plopped her stool down in front of me and started to give me a foot massage. We kept on saying “No Gracias” but she said she was just giving me a sample of her work. Half hour and $15 later she got what she had set out for...but, she did keep all the hawkers away with her “Big Mama’s got this” attitude. While she (Thomasa) was with us we heard a commotion in the cabana right in front of us. Turns out, while she and her family were in the water someone stole e-v-e-r-y-t-h-I-n-g. This woman was beyond distraught...and it was a good reminder for us to stay vigilant. Once Thomasa left us, the hawkers returned like flies and we were finally driven off the beach (which was OK because the water was
too cold for me. Walter said sea temp was 77 degrees....guess I’ve been spoiled by our 89 degree private pool! ?). Tried to go to upstairs pool but wind was so strong that it was actually pushing us around! Back to apartment, cold shower ( apparently there is no hot water heater) and then out for great pizza at restaurant around corner. Wind was still wailing so walking around dirt swirling streets was not calling to us...so back to apartment where we watched Animal Channel in Spanish before hitting bed.
Got up this morning, cruised down the street for breakfast and realized after breakfast that I had relapsed with sinus issue again. Guess the wind carried too much dirt for my tiny sinus cavities...so, took nap and then wrote this looooooong blog.
Plans tonight for bite at local Greek restaurant, packing and heading out tomorrow for old town Santa Marta. I’m excited, as Walter has booked us into the Hotel Suite Boutique El Cactus’ Presidential Suites for 3 nights. He also booked for Tuesday, a 50 ft. sailboat trip to Tayrona Park, complete with snorkel equipment, paddle boards, kayaks, lunch and libations. So...look for next blog in couple
of days...
Until then, hope everyone is happy, healthy and loving life❤️
PS. I’ve FINALLY got photos loaded after several FRUSTRATING text conversations with my Travelblog guru, Lynn Beebe! Thank you Lynn for all your patience and for helping me figure it all out! Whew! Major brain exercise!
Hugs,
Walter and Cindy
THE ADVENTURESOMES
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Beebe
Lynn Beebe
So glad you figured it out!
This so much fun...reading someone else's blog! Hope you are feeling better....and I'm looking forward to next entry! Love, Lynn