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Published: July 16th 2017
Geo: -35.6751, -71.543
After one night in Santiago, I left in a rush (I overslept and had to sent a mail before I could leave...) to get to the Reserva National Altos de Lircay. To get there, I took a 3 1/2 hour-bus to Talca and a 2 hour-bus to Vilches Alto. It wasn't that easy to find a bus going there because nobody knew which bus was going there, but in tge end I was so lucky to find one. The bus-tour was long but the worst was yet to come : a 2 km more or less steep hike to the Administration of the reserve. As if my bagpack wasn't heavy enough, I had to rent a gascooker and food at the bus-stop (the first is imposed by the administration, the second because there is obviously no shop in the reserve). I can tell you, I never needed more time for a 2 km hike than that day!
Finally arrived at the administration, they gave me a warm welcome and a map of the reserve explaining me what route to take and hiw long every part would take (in all they predicted 7-8 hours).
Getting to the first point where was
my camping was almost as bad as getting to the administration, but I survived it! ;-) Here the same, the employees were very nice and gave me a nice spot with a roof in case it would rain. There was a table, chairs and even light and a place to charge my phone! Yuhoo ! :-D
Shortly after putting my tent, I left to take the "sendero Aliwenmahuida" of 900 and the "sendero de los niños" of 600m to get back. This hike was amazing! The fauna and flora was fabulous and the view from the "mirador Antohuara" was breathtaking! I spent there more than 30 minutes just watching this stunning landskape. It was completely overwhelming to see el cerro Morrillo surrounded by a huge green forest. I felt completely connected to the universe, I felt all the energie of this place floating through me and this creates a feeling of total serenity, liberty and deep happiness, satisfaction and infatuation. As you can see, I'm completely in love with this place. You should absolutely come here to make this experience yourself.
For the very first time, I'm all alone, nobody is around, no sound but the nature and I ould stand it
without problem. There was nothing bothering or tormenting me ; I think that shows that I'm quite satisfied and content with myself at the moment.
That second night in my tent, I slept much better and when I woke up during the night the sky was completely clear and without any lights around you could see thousands of stars; very beautiful!
The next morning I started my hike to "El Enladrillado" and to the "Laguna al Alto" at 6:15 AM. I did this track in 4 phases : 1) 2 hours : 5 km up and downhill to point 6 (second camping) that were more or less exhausting but ok. On my way a fox : he was walking on the way and stopped when he saw me. I stepped a step aside so that he could pass. He wasn't scarred at all and he was beautiful with his automn colors and his big black eyes. I also met 3 guys I had seen the day before and they showed me the huge owl they were watching in a tree. She was really big and impressive. At the camping I made a 10 minutes breakfast break.
2) 2 hours : 3 km steep
uphill across the woods and up the mountain to "El Enladrillado" on 2300 m altitude. I think this part was the most most difficult and exhausting. From this view point, I could see the surrounding volcanos "el descabezado grande", Quizapú and "cerro azul". The view was spectacular and breath-taking. I didn't stay more than 15 min though, because it was very windy and raining a bit. During that phase, 5 other people was always more or less close behind me, but they stayed much longer on this viewpoint than me and so from that point on I was completely alone in this large part of the reserve.
3) 2 hours : 5 km up and downhill (but still very high) to the highest point on the mountain (2800 m) to la "Laguna al Alto" where I had a 30 minutes-lunch-break. I passed by some snow and ice on the way and the view over the lagoon was amazing!
4) 2 1/2 hours : 4 km downhill (and sometimes a bit uphill) back to the camping site. After packing my bags, I was so fortunate as to get a lift from a nice employee of the reserve to the 2 km
far away bus stop. She was really niceand she told me to my surprize that they were not very happy to be in the Lonely Planet Guide because this way much more people come. She just hopes that it won't attract too many "bad tourists", but just the way there is a cgallenge and you gave to really wat to get there, so I suppose the "party tourists" will go somewhete else.
During this faboulous hike I saw lots of animals and the fauna and flora is sooo beautiful that I csn't even start to describe it. Now I feel like quite another person, somehow I feel more relaxed and in the same time full of energy and confidence in myself and in the universe. The feelings I had during and after it are impossible to describe, just so much : I can die in peace one day knowing I have ssen the most beautiful place on earth. I can only recommand you to go visit this place, it's worth the effort!
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