Easter in Valparaiso

---

Geo: -33.0206, -71.5548

Wow. What a unique city. For that reason, Valparaiso has probably been my favorite city on this trip so far. After a days sailing the Pacific, we arrived at our final cruise port this morning. We were off the ship by 9am. Our final day of cruising was largely pretty laid back and relaxing. Gym, alot of drinking, and a final dinner with our friends Perry and Gloria from Texas and Bo and Kristine from Malmo. The saddest part of the cruise conclusion was saying goodbye to these lovely people. Even as I write this, Nat and I are enjoying the bottle of champagne we received as a honeymoon gift from our Swedish friends.

Like I said, overall we've really enjoyed the cruise, the destinations, the food and overall experience. 14 nights however is enough. I have had ENOUGH of sickly cruise passengers We were sad to be ending a chapter of our honeymoon and unsure of what to expect the next day flying up to Peru. We needed an uplifting experience to tide us over for the night in between, and Valparaiso delivered.

First impressions from the port to the cruise terminal weren't particularly noteworthy. The city was huge though, and houses seem to stretch back for miles into the hills, apparently built almost on top of each other. It was a fair shuttle ride and queue just to clear the ship and customs. Once through, we ran into Bo and Kristine again. We split a shuttle ride, with Nat and I getting dropped at our Ibis hotel before our friends went on to their destination. We said our goodbyes and saddled up for a lengthy wait in the reception before we could check in. It was a case of 3 portions of cruise passengers checking out of the hotel to get on the cruise ship back Beunos Aries bound, and 1 portion checking in. We met a lovely couple here, Gabby and Mario who helped to pass the time. We were checked in by 1pm.

So just an afternoon, one night, and tomorrow morning to enjoy this city. What to do? We didn't know alot about this place or what to see. Also, being Easter Sunday, the streets were quiet, and nearly all shops and restaurants seemed closed. Some quick research indicated that Pablo Nerudas house, "La Sebastiana" might be the best option. Pablo Neruda, the famous writer, poet and Nobel prize winner is revered as somewhat of a local hero, and his former home, turned museum was just half hour walk away, perfect.After a quick cafe lunch, we set of for our destination. Now let me just say, I don't think Ive seen a single overweight individual in Valparaiso. Its not hard to see why. Its probably the most consistently steep city Iv ever been to. Erratically steep at that. Theres 40degree roads everywhere, winding about in chaotic fashion. A rustic, rainbow of homes decorate the streets where ever you look. Homes built above homes; Improvised balconies, winding alleys, secret cafes, abandoned homes, towering churches, domes, contrasting vibrant colours, scattered monuments, wandering free range dogs and uncountable spectacular viewpoints. All among the scents of tasty family lunches and enthusiastic chatter of the locals. Nothing is on the level. No two buildings appear the same design, shape or height. Most of the exteriors of the buildings appear humbly constructed an rustic. Most however are adorned with artistic paintings and ornately furnished inside.

By the time we climbed the street leading to Pablo Nerudas house, we thought we might need oxygen tanks. Perfect training for Machu Picchu. The house was a spectacle indeed, offering amazing views of the city in all directions. An interesting and informative audio guide kept our interest. From there, we wound our way down through the streets in the general direction of our hotel, essentially intentionally getting lost on the way.

What an adventure, the walk back to the hotel itself was amazing. No matter where you go, you're treated to curious architectural arrangements, vivid colours and spectacular views. Once back at the hotel, we quickly researched some restaurants for dinner and decided on Restaurant La Consepcion , just 10 minutes walk from our hotel. Ranked number 3 on tripadvisor. Again, getting there in itself was an inspired adventure. Hundreds of narrow stairs between hotels, homes, cafes and a family barbecue. The restaurant itself.. ? Wow. Wow. Wow. A breathtaking sunset view overlooking the city and port. Amazing steak, beer and the best ravioli I think Iv ever had. Anywhere. Ever. Chocolate melting cake for Dessert was also memorable. What an amazing day. We arrived, a bit sad at our cruise conclusion with humble expectations. We shall leave tomorrow inspired, with many fond memories.Just two weeks remain now, and the next chapter is our Intrepid Tour of Peru. Tomorrow, we travel to Santiago airport and fly to Lima.

---