SA Cruise: Day 20

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We awake to a rainy, foggy day and behave accordingly—like lazy slugs. We have now exited the Strait of Magellan on the west side and are heading north into the region known as the Chilean Fjords, consisting of countless islands and bays carved out by retreating glaciers some 10,000 years ago and then flooded by the sea. However, we can see very little because of the weather. Attended lectures on the voyages of the Beagle (with and without Darwin aboard), on Antarctic explorations and their relationship to Darwinism, and on the geology of the Earth.

The weather clears around 2 pm, revealing a similar scene to what we saw on previous days: rugged rocky islands and mainland, punctuated by ribbon-like streams cascading from the heights, and in the distance wonderful snow-capped mountains. Magnificent vistas that have not changed much since this area was visited by Magellan, Drake and so many others.

This evening's entertainment is virtuoso harmonica player Bernie Fields, who turns out to hail from Montreal. He's great, zooming through a selection of light classical and pop music tunes. Following his performance, the Philippino crew members host their own cultural show, featuring singing and dancing of surprisingly good quality.

By the time we go to bed, the sea has grown quite rough. It's a rock and roll night, but I for one have no problem with it.

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