Our fantastic trekking guide to Patagonia includes a hike we've had our eye on for months, in Parque Nacional Puyehue, a few hours north of Puerto Varas and straddling the border between Region XIV Los Ríos and Region X Los Lagos. There's only one problem: the trail passes almost under the nose of the volcanic eruption which has been spewing ash over Argentina's Lake District and causing global havoc - the eruption disrupted air traffic in Australia for several days, so we're not talking about an insignificant planet-fart here - since June 2011. We've seen for ourselves the state of Villa La Angostura, the small Argentine town which bore the brunt of the ash - can there be any hope for a hiking trail a few kilometres away from the source of said ash? After a
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