Blogs from Ancud , Chiloé Island, Los Lagos, Chile, South America

nach einer kuschligen nacht, endlich wieder alleine im zimmer, genießen wir frisches schweizer körndl-brot und selbstgemachte marmelade zum frühstück! wunderbar organisiert werden wir vom hostel abgeholt und in familiärer atmosphäre zum wohnhaus der touri-agentur inhaber gebracht. das haus und seine kleinen cabanas liegen direkt in der bucht, von wo aus wir mittels meer-kajak ins wasser starten. ich muss ehrlich zugeben, es ist etwas gruselig in dem zweier-kajak, das sehr seefest scheint, quer über die bucht und gegen die wellen zu paddeln. hat fast was von explorer-geist mit der salzigen gischt und dem morgendlichen wind im gesicht, den blick auf das ziel in weiter ferne gerichtet. das andere ufer erreicht, hanteln wir uns entlang der steilen klippen mit dichtem bambus-bewuchs bis zur äußersten spitze der bucht, an der die wellen unangenehme höhen erreichen. witziger weise erinnert die ... read more

It has been while since we last wrote and we have moved along quite swiftly. From Santiago, we went to the surfing town of Pichilemu. We expected a JBay kind of town, with fancy holiday houses and surf shops. What we saw was quite the opposite - a pokey town with run down houses and overgrown verges. Pichilemu is known to have some of the best waves in the world, hosting one of the big surf competitions. Marco hired a board and enjoyed the Pacific water for a day. Unfortunately, his lack of surfing fitness let him down despite the good waves, but he enjoyed the surf in Pichilemu and Los Lobos (while Phillipa read a good book, hence, no photos). We had a nervous laugh at the sign painted on the beach road stating this ... read more

The bus from Castro was pretty easy, really. We probably could have walked it but, lacking the time or the inclination to do 85ks on foot, we opted for public transport. Once there finding a place to stay presented no major challenge. It seemed we had inadvertently picked the absolute best time to come to Chiloe. There were literally no other tourists, but things were still open as it came onto winter. But Ancud; seriously - best place ever. The moment we got off the bus it felt good. We found a hostel in the LP and wandered a short distance around the town to find it. There was a hill, if I'm honest, but at sea level it presented no great challenge. As we walked up the driveway an excitable Border Collie ran up to ... read more

I open my eyes and already know that something awoke me. A lot of darkness and shadows. A slit of blue light from between the blue curtains to my left. A few clicks of static before they come into focus beyond the end of my bed: the watery glisten of two eyes, still and watching, above the points of my toes. The moment seems to drag forever. Another static crinkle of silence, and like the release of a dark balloon, the eyes float upward, attached to a head trailing hair like a fine gray smoke. A shine of black teeth locked in a violent grin. The ceiling does not catch it; it floats right into the wood and disappears. My chest has a little explosion. I’m too scared to move. Then I’m on my feet, striding ... read more

I love Chiloe - where else do you get a lilac and orange cathedral in the main town? Chiloe is an archipelago of islands off the coast of southern Chile - its appeal is the 150 odd wooden churches and its unique way of life developed when its Spanish settlers were isolated from the mainland settlers for 200 years. Its not the most logical destination when your starting point is Buenos Aires but I've always wanted to go there so off we set on a 33 hour journey involving 3 buses, one border and a ferry. Stage one was a 22hour bus journey from BA to Bariloche - but in Argentina that's not as arduous as it sounds, think 1st class plane travel. Great big comfy seats that almost fully recline, pillows and blankets, a steward ... read more