Vicuna--Smiles and Tears Leaving coastal La Serena, the little local bus was crammed to the aisles as we headed up the Elqui Valley. We passed fertile farmlands, then hills covered with saguaro-like cactus, tiny adobe pueblos, a dam that created a lake submerging vineyards on its edges and finally regal views of the snow-capped Andes. After an hour, we arrived at Vicuna, the largest town in the valley. Still, Vicuna is a relatively small town of 25,000; as in most such places, people are initially wary of out-of-towners--those who stay a day or two and pronounce the town boring. I am clearly a foreigner, for one just doesn't see middle-aged Chilean women with hiking boots and a pony tail. However, whenever I smiled and said, "Hola, buenos dias" to residents, their faces broke into the most
... read more
