don´t expect much, you´ll be impressed

---

When we first arrived in Chile 10 days ago, we were perhaps a little dissapointed as our expectations didn´t reconcile with what we found in Futeleufu. With our pantry almost empty we hoped to restock with food and fuel, but found shops to be few, small and with limited supplies. We talked with some Americans who were faced with the prospect of a 150km drive to the nearest petrol station on a near empty tank. Days later and still not with much in the way of maps and food, we met a British cyclist heading in the opposite direction. When we mentioned that we found the Chileans to be more reserved than the outgoing and friendly Argentinos he replied "yeah, they´re all c**ts down there" and all the towns were s**tholes. Armed with this knowledge we ventured south to find the towns aren´t that bad and supplies are available if you ask the locals, who are more than happy to give directions. More often than not the shops appear to be the front rooms of peoples houses.

The Carretera is, justifiably, a drawcard for many cyclists, most of whom are doing much bigger trips than us. We feel like rank amateurs when we meet people like Jeff from Cananda who is on his way back from Tierra del Fuego after spending 2 1/2 years cycling south and is only half way through his trip. About the time we observed our first 1,000 km he was celebrating 50,000 kms! Then there was the cute wee grey haired British couple, who enjoy their retirement by venturing south every winter, and like many had returned for a second pedal in these lands.

Stopping to chat to passing cycle tourers is great, and being able to tap into the two-wheeled grapevine is very useful for finding vital information, as obtaining a map here is difficult and many tourists offices are still shut. We´re thankful for the map we brought in NZ, as inaccurate as it is.

What is surpising is the number of cyclists who start out with the intention of reaching Tierra del Fuego by riding south through Argentina. Or starting their journey their and heading north. Most find the weeks and weeks of flat, hot, dry, featureless and straight gravel roads doesn´t make for great cycling, but far worse are the furious patagonian northwest winds. We talked to one couple who battled for 6 hours to complete 45 kms and got thrown off their bikes several times by the wind before turning round. Then were back to where they started within an hour, barely turning a pedal.

We try not to be too focused on the destination but sometimes the pull of the cash machine and a well stocked supermarket is strong, so after days of limited resources we were glad to roll into Coyhaique, the only decent sized town in the Austral region. Excited about the prospect of fresh veges and a more varied diet, we were like kids in a giant lolly shop when we entered the enormous supermarket. When life is stripped back to the essential elements (eating, sleeping and riding) its the little things that really matter.

Time for a rest and some fattening up for us, so we have spent the last couple of days having a bit of R&R here sampling the local culinary delights. Unfortunately it wasn´t the sun drenched rest days we had been hoping for, I think there's some fresh snow on the hills even. Phil is glad he has brought some warm clothes for a change. With an array of xmas tunes being blurted out of store facades, it suddenly feels christmas´y. I think tonight we will try boil up our wee plum pud on the camp fire, we have even brought some Coñac (couldn´t find any brandy) to make the Clearwater tradition of brandy butter. Thinking of you all in the pre xmas rush, as we wander rather amlessly through the crowded streets. Feliz navidad to you all, all we want is the sun back!!!!

---

Comments

[Chelsea]

Maps and a Curicana contact
If you want better maps check out the following site: http://www.turistel.cl/secciones/mapas/index.htm click on the listings under "mapas ruteros de chile", it is listed from cities within or between the regions. If you happen to stop in Curico in the 7th region look us up. We are a cycling couple that has been living in Chile for 4 years!!! Give a call: 09-97932788

[Amy]

Hey you two
Hey Guys, great to hear about all your travels, wishing you both a wonderful and safe and happy christmas. Lots of love Amy, Ryan And Amber

[Holly :)]

Happy Christmas!
Hi KJ! I was thinking of you as I sat down to have my christmas lunch today so afterwards I jumped on here to wish you well. I'm not sure what the time difference is christmas wishes may be a bit early. It sounds like your trip has been amazing so far, despite the weather. If it makes you feel any better the weather here today has been rather rainy and cold, not very much like the usual summery christmas we have in N.Z. Anyway I just wanted to say hello and wish you a happy christmas :)