A boat-trip

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The day didn't get off to a good start when I couldn't find the house-keys and was convinced I was going to miss the boat trip. Tipped everything out of the case for the second day running before working out that they were in the lock of my room attached to the room key. Stopped at the local supermarket to pick up water but forget that I had had to cross the road to do so, started marching in wrong direction and had to retrace my steps. Honestly, sometimes I think I shouldn't be let out on my own, let alone on a different continent! Had barely enough time to make it to the pier on the other side of the old town but, as I neared this, was encouraged to see other people actually running! I didn't run but arrived dripping with perspiration_ nevertheless. Needless to say, the boat left late.

An introduction to the cruise in Portuguese, which I didn't really attempt to understand, was followed by one in Dutch. When a guy came to ask me in English about lunch I asked him about the English commentary. I am it, he said. Turned out that all the people on board were either Brazilian or belonged to a Dutch tour group. I did try during the course of the day to make polite conversation with some of the latter. They were wiling to give very brief responses to my questions about what they had seen but that was it. Was much amused by one elderly gentleman with a very large tummy who informed me that they normally went skiing but had decided they might be getting a bit old for this. I had visions of him skiing in the posture of a heavily pregnant women, that is leaning backwards, in order to balance his weight.

I took the plunge, literally, from the boat in order to see the fish they had promised. Not surprising that so many appeared as one of the crew was throwing fish food over the side. You certainly didn't need a snorkel to see them. I had been offered, and accepted, a flotation device, a sort of long, slim rubber wand. Discovered that these might be fine for floating but they made it impossible to swim. The next stop was a beach. It was pretty but unfortunately it was so crowded with people from other boats that the crew member rowing us ashore in the dinghy nearly ran over some children. Don't really understand why they can't operate some sort of rota system to avoid the crush but perhaps they already were! We were told that the house on the beach was private - did I feel sorry for its owner!

Heard another passenger talking Spanish to the Dutch tour guide so tried to strike up a conversation with him. What a pain in the neck he was. Insisted on speaking English as soon as he realised I was British. Asked me nothing about myself. Boasted about all the places he had been, patronised me by telling me things I already knew, about the similarities between Spanish and Portuguese and that the South Americans had closer links with the US than with the Brits. Rather endearingly though, he confessed that his dream was to visit Liverpool because he was crazy about the Beatles. He must be the third South American who has mentioned the Beatles to me. Seems that they are our only claim to fame here!

More of the same after that, another beach and another bay. Spent most of the time trying to avoid the sun, shifting around the boat to stay in the shade every time it changed direction. The sun was so strong that I daren't stay in the water more than a few minutes at a time. I obviously have a short memory as I had forgotten how hot it was in Cartagena and Santa Marta in Colombia last year. Also appear to have forgotten that the reason I didn't need air-conditioning, except in those two places, was that everywhere else I visited was located at a high altitude so nights were not a problem. The only place so far that nights have been bearable on this trip was Ouro Preto, which is also up in the mountains. We are currently in the South American autumn, what must things be like in summer.

On my way back from the boat I passed what appeared to be a mass bingo session (specifically, a more complicated version that included letters). There were hundreds of people of all ages, including lots of children, sitting in the main square, all marking off their cards and listening intently to the loudspeaker. On enquiring I was told it was a fundraiser for the church but it also seemed to be a party. Difficult to visualise a silar event here.

When I got back to the house Alfredo was out - again. But who can blame him for not wanting to spend time in a furnace? It's so hot in my room that my lipstick has melted and my mobile phone has come unstuck from its case. So I went down to the kitchen to write and phone. Not exactly cool but better - and possibly fewer mosquitoes. Since it would be unbearable to spend the whole evening in the house had fully intended to trek across to the historic centre again. However got to the nearest restaurant which Alfredo had recommended and decided that would have to do. Couldn't face any more walking and there were never any taxis to be seen. The old part is pretty at night but it's a young person's place really or, at least, a couple's. Forgot to say that lots of the bars and restaurants have musicians, some very good, playing and singing impossibly romantic songs!

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