Edit Blog Post
Published: November 16th 2010
Well the transfer from Rio was more than a little interesting. We got picked up in an 8 seater van with our packs put in the back and went to Ipanema to pick up two entertaining Americans. It became evident early on that our driver liked driving fast and shortcuts whenever possible. He sped down the motorway going in the deserted outside lane and pulling in when there were cameras which stopped non taxi drivers in that lane. That was amusing enough but it got worse. There had been an accident on the motorway further up and traffic came to a stand still. When we started moving again he went to the inside lane and used all methods and the hard shoulder to get past cars culminating in when the traffic started moving and there was a policeman standing at the side of the road he threatened to write him a ticket but the man just waved him and drove on. The journey took about 3.5 hours with a break for lunch and we arrived at Angra dos Reis an hour early for our ferry to Ilha Grande.
The ferry was a slow passenger ferry but the scenery was amazing
- expanses of sea with a backdrop of huge rain forest covered mountains. The clouds were closing in as we arrived and it remained dry for us to walk the short distance up the beach to Overnativa Green Hostel our home for the next 4 nights. The lady was very welcoming and showed us to our 4 bed dorm which only we occupied the whole time - think probably due to the poor weather we had. Dinner was had that night and every night at the Pousada cooked by the lady host and would be a staple of black bean stew and rice which even Sam described as ´meaty´, salad chicken (fried some nights in a pie other nights) and beetroot buffet style all for 10 Reais (about 4 pounds). We had a walk out in the heavy rain later where I found my ´waterproof jacket´was less than waterproof.
The next day we had breakfast that was served up buffet style - an array of hot drinks herbal tea and coffee, oats, beard, chees and ham, passion fruit, plums, pineapple and bananas on different days and also a kind of creme brule and madeira cake with amazing honey and
what I think was passion fruit jam. It was hard not to gorge! The weather was mixed but we thought we would go on a small trail to one of the beaches and the ruins of an aquaduct and the prison, this turned in to a 3 hour round trip to a waterfall that was less than impressive and which stretched Sam´s resolve laregly due to his sandals rubbing him. Rain then followed and after dinner we chilled out in the hostel and deliberated our plans for the next day.
The next day brought mised weather but we went out to investigate the tours on offer and to see if Sam could fish, sadly too expenxive some wanting 100 pounds for a day trip. We decided we would swim to the island just out in the bay at Abrao where we were staying. We had to carefully pick our route due to the dirty water of the harbour then the rocks of the beach and as I got us in the water then chickened out Sam made us continue and we made it. It was small and little there but it was worth it. Again the weather got worse
and we relaxed in the evening watching Clash of the Titans then going for a beer on the waterfront.
13th November was a little brighter but still grey and we had decided that we would make the trek to Lopes Mendes, a beach on the other side of the island which people had told us was worth the 5 hour round trip. We set off with packed lunch via the two beaches along the way and arrived around 2pm to a large stretch of golden sand. The sun even came out briefly, enough to burn my shoulder. It did then cloud over and started to rain a little so the hike back was commenced. It was gruelling not only because of the mountainous terrain but also because of the muddy slippy paths, glad I wore my waterproof trousers although did look like an 80s throw back in a shell suit, otherwise my muddy bum would have been even more evident. In the evening we rewarded ourselves with extra servings at dinner and we went out for self service pay by the 100g ice cream.
This morning we woke early and got the larger passenger ferry back to Angra
where we then go the bus to Paraty. A very bumpy journey, sitting at the back with our bags you had to stay alert so as to prevent yourself from breing thrown around the bus, not due to the road surface but more the driving style and Sam gave up reading his book. We arrived at Paraty from where I write this now. It is a pretty colonial town. Touristy and even more so due to the bank holiday tomorrw. We are hoping to hire bikes tomorrow to explore some of the beaches and waterfalls and rainforest close by, weather permitting.
Tot: 3.406s; Tpl: 0.046s; cc: 10; qc: 52; dbt: 0.0386s; 3; m:saturn w:www (126.96.36.199); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.4mb