Olinda again

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It turned out that I couldn´t stay the extra day on the island.
So yesterday, after a lovely day with George, Bruno, and Carol touring around to farms and eating with the same family as the night before: George´s friends with the five year old triplets; with sadness in my heart, I said my farewells to Gabi, the hero who saved me from the clutches of the evil Pousado N´Janda, Adrianna, the delightful, intelligent, and warm host, saviour of the local cats, then Bruno and Carolina, the charming and fabulous partners of George on the yacht. Finally, to my Anamcara, George, the inspiration for the ´rock opera´, an all around great bloke, a guy who I consider to be a true friend for me in this short passage we call our lives!
What a fantastic last day on the sail boat: great in every way, delicious weather, great friends, fabulous sailing, tremendous snorkelling, delicious food. It was the perfect way to wrap up my stay.
When I first came to America, to Martha´s Vineyard, the place had a magical, mystical feel that kept bringing me back to it. I haven´t found anywhere else with quite the same vibe on my travels until now. The idea that I was leaving and not going back seemed literally incomprehensible to me. I feel like a piece of me will be waiting to go back to Fernando de Noronha, back to the shining, magical waters, the utterly gorgoeus beaches, but more, to the people I was starting to meet: friends of the future.
Probably a pipedream, unless I can find a way around the eco-tax that starts at $30 a day, but escalates to $2000 for a stay of a month! Yikes!
George thinks I could offer English classes, maybe music classes and be able to apply for a different visa. Who knows?
All I know is that the Lonely Planet claimed Fernando to be, ´a guarenteed highlight to any Brazil trip despite the expense´, and they couldn´t have been more right!
Unforgetable, pristine beauty, but also a real community (with all that implies).
Off the plane and on the mainland, forty minutes by taxi back to Olinda, and before I´d got to the pousada guides were saying hello to me, remembering me from two weeks ago.
Julio was there. It was great to see my Festa buddy! Soon Andre turns up and even though we´re both a bit tired, we go for a long walk along the Praia then back to his car and we´re off to the big annual festa in Recife called the ´´Terca Negra´´, where thousands of people are dancing in two main squares: one group to the somewhat bizarre Forro music of this area (two accordians, a drum, a triangle, and a singer!), the other group dancing to the drum and singing corp of the Afro-Brazilian community. Once again, there were hordes of fascinating people, once again, I didn´t think it a wise idea to bring the camera, a proposition I think was definitely accurate: One guy came up to us, a very dodgy looking character sucking on a Coke Zero can. There was something weird about the way he was doing it. Andre explained he was not drinking Coke, but actually breathing in the chemicals from some strange drug called ´´lolo´´. Andre said it makes people, ´´loco´´, so we moved hastily away.
We also went into a Club, which good taste does not permit me to describe, but all I can say is that she didn´t have to pull my hair so hard, did she?
Back in Olinda, I felt like some sort of minor tourist celebrity: all the guides were shaking my hand and high fiving. Makes me wonder about what I did when I was last here. Was my dancing that bad?
Anyway, we got back from this giant party early - midnight, and I slept like a log.
Today, Andre and I did the obligatory tour of the historic district of Recife, photos of which may or may not accompany this blog. We´ve just finished stuffing ourselves at the all-you-can-eat buffet for 7 Reals at the Pousada, the best value meal I´ve had in Brazil, not including the chicken and chips masterpiece George put together.
I started chatting to two french women, just arrived for a nine month stay. To my surprise, despite speaking almost exclusively English on Noronha, my Portuguese has advanced slightly: it´s up from utterly appalling and embarassing to merely atrocious! Whoo hoo! After a nice stroll up the hill I left them searching for accomodation. Bon chance!
I´ve got an early night coming: I need to be up at 4:30am for the 6:35am plane to Brasilia and then on to Manaus. That´s right: the next blog will be coming to you from the heart of the Amazon!
Now that´s what I´m talking about!
See you on the flypaper,
mike

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Comments

[deleted_20337]

Gosh, home is going to seem utterly dull and boring, I fear. You've been immersed in such beauty and peace on your island, this place is sure to be a drag, eh? Would love to say we look forward to your writings while in the Amazon, but I'm suspecting that you won't have easy internet access, if any. Correct? Of course, we wish you a very safe trip. Oh by the way....you aren't missing much here, unless you're fond of oppressively humid and hot weather which is making everyone a bit grumpy. Sigh. I love summer but we need a break from this stuff! xoxo, Suze (ps....plants are ok. i think. i'm determined to develop some gardening skills now. maybe one day i'll have my own live plants. haahaa....as Gia laughs)

[mike allen]

Suze and Gia
Internet and Amazon - It should be ok in Manaus, but outside the city, who knows? One thing I do know, I´ll be heading into oppressive heat and humidity tomorrow, so we will be sharing that at least! Keep it going Green thumb! mike

[captain]

the real thing
Sounds like Brasil has been good to you so far. Maybe you get more opportunities to open the place up becaue you are on your own? We (Diane Max Charlie and Me) are off to the Gower camping this weekend. Looks like there will be a weather window for us. I'm taking the biking and then heading up the west coast with Dave, Graham, BDog (aka the not- so-greasy truckers). Good luck in Manaus! Capt.

[mike allen]

Captain
Cheers Cap. So far so good! I like Manaus. Take it easy on those bikes - I know what you´re like when you get with Dave and BDog! mike