Pantanal

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From Brazilia we took an overnight bus to Cuiaba hoping to organise a tour into the Pantanal. The Pantanal is a huge wetland area - the biggest wetlands in the world. Its rich in wildlife particularly birds. For about 4 months of the year the land is flooded. This has preserved the area from too much human settlement.

The long distance buses are excellent (they need to be with a country this big). Comfy seats that recline right back, toilets, air con and frequent stops for meals.

The food that we have met so far is interesting even the bus stops have “per kilo” buffets where you load your plate up then have it weighed at the till. There is always a good selection to chose from with salads, vegetable dishes as well as plenty of meat. For our palette the cooks are a touch heavy handed with the salt - now Viv understands why all her Brazilian friends cover their European cooked food in salt. Do Brazilians suffer from high blood pressure? Does this explain the stands along the beach in Rio where you can get your blood pressure checked?

Driving into the Pantanal on the Transpantaneira (that despite the name just goes to a dead end) the abundance of life is stunning. Within five minutes we had seen more species of birds that we will ever be able to name as well as lots of Caiman sunning themselves.

The animal highlights were:
The Hyacinth Macaw, the worlds largest parrot and a wild population of only about 3000.
Caiman mum with 20+ babies, and another caiman that had just caught a big fish for lunch.
Toucans - because they are just so cool.
Howler monkey singing at sunset, marmosets and capuchin monkeys chasing each other round the branches (and sometimes throwing sticks at us).

We organised a tour with Mariana at Ecoverde. 3 nights staying at two different pousadas, the first, Pousada Alegre, was a farm of 11,000 hectares, 2000 cows and room for a few birdwachers. The second, Arunçua lodge, mostly farmed tourists so had more facilities but not the same authentic atmosphere. We recommend Ecoverde to any like minded travellers - well organised and good price.

Viv talked me onto a horse for 2 rides through the bush, exploring further a field than was possible by foot. Very well behaved horses, very bruised bum! We also spent a couple of afternoons paddling along a river and catching lots of photos of water birds - bright coloured kingfishers, cormorants, snake birds (very clumsy), herons (impossible to get a good photo!). And the rest of the time was spent on foot, with binoculars watching the monkeys, birds and occasional beasts go about their daily lifes. The local jaguar didn’t put in an appearance.

After 4 days of peace and quiet, it was time to return to civilisation. But next stop - the Amazon!

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Photos

Jabiru Stork
These are huge!! in flight, difficult to distinguish from a 747.

Mum and baby
We counted 20 babies around this long suffering mother

Rhea
We saw a nest with half a dozen eggs - like ostrich eggs, white and very big.

Toucan
Fiendishly difficult to catch by camera

Capybara and friends
the worlds biggest Guinea Pig

Comments

[jemma]

wow
hey wow guys that all sounds pretty amazing, you have seen so much now, in your lives eh, bet you have plenty of stories to tell...xxxx

[Ross]

Wow!
That's brilliant - I wasn't convinced by the cities, but I'd visit for that!

[Hannah]

Hello from Spanish Spain
I love Capybara!! Excelent photos - err did Viv take them? xx

[Gill]

Whoooooooooooooo
Matt - that sounds awesome.. what an amazing trip you're having in such a beautiful place. I've always wanted to go into the Pantanal and Hyacinth Macaws are my faaaaaaaaaaavorite bird, I've only seen them at Heathrow quarantines and they're so rare so it must've fab to see them in the wild. Keep having fun and keep safe Cuidarte en la Amazonia! love to you both Gillx

[Matt Y]

Re: Hello from Spanish Spain
all photos copyright Matt Young - humph!