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Published: November 27th 2011
Kitesurf, sun, flat waters, family, and wind!!!
The idea of this blogg is to guide kitesurfers on a trip for kitesurfing in Cumbuco.
I plan to describe here a bit about the village itself, some gesthouses (Pousadas as they are called in Brazil), spots, and daily life.
I work as a kitesurfing instructor in Stockholm and heard from our custmers, lots about Cumbuco. It is one of the best kitespots in the world. Sun, amazing beaches, warm water, waves, lagoons, and wind, wind, wind!
When I started searching for more informations about it I had dificulties to find good "guides" on the internet for Cumbuco. All I could find was some visit-Cumbuco websites with adds for hotels, and some pages from the guesthouses. After reading all of it (in english and
portuguese) I still had a very wrong idea about what to expect.
The image I had in mind was a touristic town with loads of ghesthouses, restaurants and kite-shops fighting for every custumer the same way it happens with diving centers in Koh Tao (Thailand) or safari operators in Nairobi (Kenia). I was wrong! The village
Cumbuco is a small village about 30 km from Fortaleza. Even with the big numbers
Friends from the pousada ready to go!
of foreign tourists it is still a poor village where most streets are still badly paved, houses have thatched roofs and the old ladies spend their days looking out of the windows triyng to understand what is all this people with kiteboards under their arms.
The center is where everything happens, food, nightlife... and it has basicaly 3 streets: the beach front, the central street and the back street. And there is also the central square which is under construction.
The beach front is a chill-out sandy street were there are about 10 european standard bars, lounges and restaurants share the sea view with a few other bars where non kiting brasilian tourists hang out on the weekends. In one end of this street there is a ATM where you can withdraw cash with most credit cards!
On the Central street is the bus stop, 2 dusty supermarkets, a few cool lounges/bars sharing the same sidewalk with local houses.
The back street is mainly local houses, the kids school and one medical center where a nurse can help if you got hurt or are feeling sick (they are very helpfull, but don't speak english). There is
is it enought for you?
also 2 great local restaurants where you can eat brasilian food (rice, beans, salad, farofa and a choice of meat) for R$ 7 for a plate. Simple but tasty!
Cumbuco is the end stop for the bus from Caucaia and Fortaleza wich means if you live and surf a bit off to the East from Cumbuco you can take a buss into town, but if you live to the west you need own transport or taxis. Consider this when booking you pousada because to walk if only one kilometer under the sun, carrying your kite gear might make you give up kiting or will cost you a lot in taxis and buggies! The kitespots
Sea - Cumbuco has only one beach. A 300km long one!! It starts in Fortaleza and stretches all the way along the northern coast of Brazil. This is the main kitespot. It means that it doesen't matter how many surfers are in the water there is place for everybody!
Lagoon - there are 2 lagoons near by. Tabuba lagoon wich is on the East side of Cumbuco, just by the road to Fortaleza. You can take the local bus and hopp-off there,
A beginner dropp his kite on another rider going in oposite direction
it costs R$2 per person and you are alowed to take your kite & board.
Cauipe lagoon. Is a bigger and nicer lagoon surounded by shades where you can order food and drinks from the beach bar nearby. It is 4km to the west side of town, wich means you can surf downwind all the way (30-45min) or take a beach-buggy R$10 p.p. The down side of the lagoon is it get packed with kitesurfers. From students bodydraging to Pro-riders perfoming their best tricks! In this caos of kites and lines its common to see accidents. Tip: if you arrive in the lagoon early in the morning (6:00 to 8:00am) you might have less wind but will share the lagoon with max 2 or 3 others! The pousadas
There are lots of pousadas around Cumbuco, all of them are more or less similar. Some are a "foot in the sand" as the brazilians call the ones which have the beach as their garden and some are a few meters away. Some offer kite tours, downwinds, BBQ, swimming pool, drop-off and pick-up at the lagoon and so on. Depending what you want you will pay from R$60 to
Poin Break Pousada
Nice place, friendly owner, but a bit too far from center.
R$100 p.p/day incl. breakfast. With exeption of Duro Beach, the most famous pousada.
Duro Beach is the day-time hang out place for most kite tourists in Cumbuco. Their bar and restaurant is open to public and offers continental food with a great brazilian touch! Fish, meat, salads, juices, beers, etc. The downside: Duro beach accomodation is nice but overpriced. Long term stay
There are other possibilities for those who need a long term stay, there are a few rooms for rent on the village, or some huge houses for rent with pool and all comodities. Unfortunately you have to speak portuguese to deal with them... I spoke to some of them which numbers and prices are here:
+55 85 8790 4236 big house w/ 5 roms, pool, grill, etc. R$ 4000/month (check "casa cumbuco 88" on youtube)
+55 85 8694 0007 small rooms for one person long stay in perfect location
+55 85 8816 8325 good location, house w/ two rooms w/bathrom, rent for R$ 4000/month
Just found another on the internet: www . casadosventos . net Prices
Brazil is expensive. Do NOT think you will get along with a few
bucks per day. The brazilian courency has a high exchange value in the market and the the prices are quite expensive. Even for you going there from the Euro or Dollar zone. Some values (from okt 2011)R$ 1,00 = € 0,37 = US$ 0,50
Pousada per pers/night: R$60 to 100
Taxi from Airport: R$70 (try +55 858711 1087 - Junior)
Dinner at restaurant: R$25 to 50
Meal at local restaurant:R$7
Beer(can): R$4 (R$2 at the supermarket)
Fruit juice: R$5
Caipirinha (traditional brazilian drink) R$6
Buggy one way to lagoon R$10
Repair of minor damage in your kite: R$50 to 100
Car rental per day: R$90 to 120 for a golf/palio/sandero Safety
This is the concern of most tourists goint to Brazil, even to me. We are traveling with expensive equipment to a unknow place in the wild part of a wild country. Is it safe???
Yes! Cumbuco is known for being a safe place, people walk around with kite gear under their arms, cameras hanging on their necks, walets in the pockets. There is very litle problem with robery or pickpoketing. Break in to rooms in
come here for first aid or any sickness
the pousadas is almost zero. With the arrival of the tourists after 2006 the locals got jobs, and criminality reduced!
There is a saying in Brazil: "Achado não é roubado" -found is not stolen- so if you leave your pump/bar/harness/board on the beach, someone will find it if you are not around to claim property!!!!
Even with this good news everybody still have to keep in mind that a kite gear is a YEAR salary of a local worker and therefore you should not leave your gear/camera unatended on the beach/bar. For exemple, some friends of mine had their car broken in and 3 complete gears stolen..... Opinion
Few things to keep in mind.
All written above is my own opinion about this place, others can disagree with me, wich is fine, I can even publish here other opinions! Just send it to me!
I didn't travel much around, like Jericoacoara, Taiba etc. I staid mainly in Cumbuco and did a small but amayzing trip to Ilha do Guajiru
. It is worthed to try other locations!
Cumbuco is a Kitesurfing ONLY destination. think about it when taking you girl/boyfriend here. There is nothing to do
trendy bars with seavew
besides kitesurfing. The strong wind blows sand across the beaches wich make them not nice to sun bathe. There is not a single yoga, gym, cinema, mall, entretainment, whatsoever for non-kitesurfers.
Brazil is a great place to travel with kids/babies. First of all you have preference in shops, banks, restaurants if you are pregnant or have a baby. Second, brazilians are super open and friendly to kids and babies. No one gets upset if your baby cries on the restaurant or bus! The downside: Sidewalks are too high and narow for a baby trolley, and in Cumbuco the unpaved roads are a nightmare to the smal weels!!
Have fun, good winds!
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