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Published: October 22nd 2011
Another update from Porto Seguro, Bahia! I haven´t posted in a while because, to be honest, I haven´t gotten up to all that much in the last two weeks.
After Lençois I took a bus back to Salvador, where I changed hostel location to the Rio Vermelho (Red River) area. My Brazilian buddy Fabio was there and I decided to chill with him there. That night I also met up with Anna, my Australian friend, and her couchsurf host Lorena. We had a good party and the next day we went to the beach for a swim. The next day Anna and I were going to go to Itacare, a few hours down from Salvador, but it was getting a bit late and Anna and Lorena convinced me to crash there for the night and go down the next day.
So the day after we got our stuff and moved south. It was possible to take a direct bus from Salvador, but my lonely planet guide recommended to take a boat to Ilha de Itaparica (Itaparica Island), which takes about an hour, and from there take the bus down. In the end we left the house
quite late again, so by the time we reached the island it was already about 18h and getting dark. Unfortunately there was no direct bus down to Itacare, so we had to first take a bus over to Valença. On arrival we discovered that getting to Itacare was probably not viable that night, but we could move further down to Itabuna. So after a few Caipirinhas (which in Brazil are cheaaaaaaaaap) we took the bus down and from there decided to go over to the next beach city Ilheus, which was supposed to be nice. We arrived at about 2 or 3 in the morning and were pretty tired, so we decided to go to a hostel to get a few more hours of sleep.
When we got up we wanted to see the city of Ilheus, which was pretty but nothing out of the ordinary, and went up to Itacare. A friendly, happy Belgian girl, Tine, approached us and we spent the busride talking about our trips and plans. She´s traveling for about a year during which she does some work here and there.
Itacare is a pretty little village. It really has the whole surfer vibe
going on, because just about everybody there surfs, or at least tries to surf. We spent the days eating açai, chilling at the beach, clambering over rocks to reach the beach, drinking Caipirinhas, watching a Capoeira demonstration, going to a Forro party, hanging out and meeting people, and just having a great time!
After 3 days or so I wanted to go down to Porto Seguro, but the person I was supposed to stay with (Lucinea) was in Sao Paolo for a few days. So I went back up to Salvador and couchsurfed for a few more days with Lorena and her sister Marcela. They really made me feel welcome in Salvador! They made delicious food, took me out to do fun things, and are always smiling 😊 After a few days I went down to Porto Seguro.
Porto Seguro (or actually slightly north from here) is where Brazil is said to be discovered. It is also known to be a big party place. I received a warm welcome from Lucinea and Gerry, who have a beautiful house on a hill with a view of the ocean. I was told that buildings can only be as tall as
the tallest palmtree in the city for historic preservation, so you won´t see any high-rises. I´ve been here for a few days checking out the historical center (not all that spectacular) and went to the museum about the discovery of Brazil. When I got there a young boy started giving me the tour... in Portuguese... of which of course I couldn´t understand very much, but I decided to play along. Also I wanted to go to Arraial d´Ajuda, a village on the other side of the river, and Trancoso, about 40 kilometers further down. Because the weather hasn´t been so good in the last few days I only did the former. You have to take the Ferry across and then a bus to the center. I thought the center was close so I walked about 4 kilometers before I arrived at the center. Arraial is a beautiful village at the top of a hill with many cute houses and cobblestone streets. The view from the top is fantastic, overlooking the forested mountains and beaches. I walked back to the Ferry along the beach, which is one of the most beautiful beaches I have seen, and was completely empty! Maybe during
the high-season it fills up with people.
I´m about to head to Belo Horizonte to go to Ouro Preto. Lucinea has family there, so she arranged places for me to stay and people to show me around, so I should be sorted for the next few days.
That´s it for now. Oh and my camera is acting up so I won´t be able to post any fotos just yet. I´ll post more once there´s more to post!
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