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Published: March 8th 2007
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Karthi and I
After searching for each other for 1hour, i managed to find Karthi before she flew out to Olinder Carnival. Ok, so you have all heard of Carnival.
However, Carnival is not what you may think in the African populated North of Brazil.
Carnival times transforms the city of Salvador in to a city of opportunity. The city swells from 3million to 8million people.
-Opportunity for thrillseekers.
-Opportunity for individuals to position themselves to take advantage of the many ways to make money from the thrill seekers. Including thieves.
In a sentence:
CARNIVAL BRINGS OUT THE BEST AND WORST OF HUMAN EMOTION
Carnival how one can participate:
Carnival Bahia is different from Rio. There is 3 circuits or vacinities for the party around the city. We were 3blocks from the safiest and most touristy <
> so stayed there. The parade is a concession of trucks blasting live music with various themes and artists. The parade follows the circuit at a snails pace.
1. Purchase a tshirt for a position inside the bloco (around NZ$40 to NZ$150). Bloco is a roped off area around the moving parade. You get the best sound to dance, are sheltered from the crowd and can dance freely. The trucks also have bathroom facilities and drink.
So Bloco
The bloco in motion. Typically, the sides of the trucks are riddled with speakers. Loud enough to wake up the dead. there is no need to leave the party!
2. Purchase a tshirt to sit on the side of the road and observe the goings on from the safety of a makeshift night club. (NZ$30 to NZ$200).
Like sitting at half way at Eden Park. No real action, just watch and sip your shandy and say << oh i say, what what! >>
3. Street popcorn or Pipoca. Get amongst the action with the locals, thumping crowd and thieves. Take what is coming to you and give what ever you want to give...
Like being the guy in Green and Gold on the Terraces at Eden Park. You get the best of the action but risk getting assulted, pies thrown at you and the works.
Literally for me (being the 1 of about 20 white people in 2million) - that was the same.
The skinny:
Of course from the get go Leon and I decided to be mongrels and get amongst it. Within 2hours and several beers later i was wandering the main drag alone. The owner of the hostel advised us it was not a good idea. However, I backed myself and went with the View of the carnival circuit
During the day, people frequent the beach and are just chilling before the night brings hundreds thousands. flow.
(After all, I managed to survive Central park at dusk with no problems! Salvador makes 112th St look like a white neighbourhood.)
I followed a random bloco as it crawled up the road. Everything was fine. I was having a blast. When I came to the realisation that I had no clue where i was i turned back and discovered that returning upstream was not the same.
I had people trying to feel my pockets. I even got cornered at one stage by 2guys selling beers. They followed me and one of them blocked me with his cooler whilst the other one put his hand in my pocket. My response was - shame mo fo i got nothing in my pockets. You can not get nothing from this Gringo! Ha!
My wide eyes experienced several Police incidences on the first night. It was clear that if you are going to be caught fighting, stealing or disturbing the peace, you are going to get a big black stick on the noggin.
I saw a fight start and before we knew it the Police appeared swinging batons at those around. The Police plucked 2guys up and marched them through the Kitted out
One of many groups of guys dressed in um well yeah. Check it out. crowd.
Another guy was even less fortunate. I was pushed out of the way not long after as a procession of 5 Police carried a motionless man through the crowd. He was drapped over one Polica in fire carry position, arms dangling and his ear dripping with blood.
Right from the outset, it was clear of the authoritys presence and their intensions.
Day 2 I was anxious to meet Karthi - a friend from Auckland who was only in Salvador until 5pm, when she flew out for Carnival elsewhere. We had been anxiously emailing before, trying to meet up.
I managed to finally get in touch with her and arranged to meet Pelourinho - the main tourist hub with big Churches and festivities during the day.
Leon and I ended up being late by 30mins. She was not where we arranged to meet (obviously). So we sat down and had a coconut. Feeling a little dejected that we had come so close to meeting yet missed each other. Karthi is Sri Lankan and it was proving to be difficult to pick her among the African contingent.
However, the stars eventually aligned - so we had a catch up Police post
After seeing the police brutality, this pic was worth the risk. on the cobble streets, amongst the churches and tourism. It was awesome to see someone from home!
Karthi took off to catch her plane and we continued back to get ready for Night 2.
Leon and I hit the streets armed with a disposible camera. We hung out at an intersection, waiting for a good band to pass by. We joined in dancing in front of an almost tribal bloco. We befriended 20 guys in pink towels and shower caps and a group of 10 African girls from Salvador. They were all equally crazy. (pics attached)
The shower boys went around grabbing girls and trying to kiss them. The suprising thing was they succeeded on several occasions.
Reocurring theme: This is Carnival baby, kiss who you want.
We found a bloco in which some Swiss guys from the hostel were in. We snuck in to the bloco for a dance and to look for our friends. I stripped off my shirt, in an attempt not to stand out. We found the guys and had a reunion. It was short lived though. Our cover was blown and sporting the wrong colours we got kicked out of the party. Local girls
Example of why i stand out in Bahia. Our dancing buddies for around 4minutes.
We skipped under the rope at another bloco for the price of a gulp of beer, learning to head for the crowded middle of the bloco. More cover.
I tried a different tactic and danced with a girl. My first African.
I got kicked out and could not find Leon. Whilst trying to find him, I bumped in to my new friend from the bloco. We walked back to her hotel and I had a beer near sunrise with her on her balcany.
Day 3... same sort of night as above.
4th night I was approached by a guy with dreads who spoke German. Like every other person - he thought i was German. Despite not speaking German we became Popcorn Friends.
I lost Leon again. Me and Ruster decided to go mental and ran through several blocos against the flow - we got kicked out on several occassions but re entered straight away. It felt more like running of the bulls - us being the bulls. The dude was classic man and we managed to find Leon eventually, which is no mean feat.
The second to last night I joined a bloco (and got Dance dance
A 12yo, a guy selling beer, 12rusters, and a whole lot more. the tshirt). It was reggae themed and was packed. The live singer cranked out some Brazilian Reggae and some classic Marley.
I was taken along by the ebs & flows of the crowd in the bloco. Immune from the popcorn and feeling at the centre of attention as the thousands danced to our music!
The bloco bounced its way the 6kms to the end of the circuit. The group of us from the hostel stayed more or less together, i thought. Somehow i found a way to get home 3hours later than the others??? Hehehe.
The last night was for me the one that got away. I crumbled by 3am, exhausted and disappointed that i was a 6night in a row man. After consulation I conceeded that maybe 3am on the last night was not a complete failure.
The stories as you can imagine are more than a little blurred.
All I know is I did not sleep more than 4hours at a time and drank for up to 14.
Recovery:
The hostel ended up being undoubtedly the nicest hostel we had stayed at.
This proved to be our sanctury against the intense reality outside Charcoal style
Perfect hangover cure called Carnival. Our place to extinguish our party flames and rest our party damaged bodies.
The days at the hostel were passed in the outside patio, hammocks, couch and breakfast table in our little hostel sanctury.
We cranked a couple of barbies to pass the time in the heat of the day. Great fun setting up the charcoals from scratch and slow cooking everything - Brazilian style.
Overall, this was the biggest week of solid partying in my life.
Carnival goes for too long and too strong to experience every moment.
Despite all this Leon and I gave it my best shot and despite the odds survived to tell the story!
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caz
non-member comment
sounds like you're having a smashing good time!! glad you're keeping safe tho!