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Walking alongside Lago Titicaca takes you back to the safest summer imaginable; families singing together outside their campers while children are free to roam around attempting to talk English with strangers. Travellers swarmmned around Copacabana all dressed in the striped trousers and colourful wristbands that are available from all the market stalls around Bolivia; many carrying guitars to sing by the lake.The Bolivian flavour flew from the restaurants along the shore where families offered traditional dishes, usually not vegetarian so I benefited solely from the smell. I felt like I was in a small village from the 60's, but in a place far away from the rest of the world.
The first evening was bitterly cold where I slept in at least two pairs of those striped trousers I had been tempted to buy. Our hostel had a lovely warm shower that warmed you up until you stepped out into the room that had no heating and gave your body a waking shock. Things change in the day when you realise how much closer you are to the sun. Lago Titicaca is 12,500 ft above sea level, making temperatures reach extremes and gives you altitude sickness. Lucky, there is a
vast supply of Coco leaves for you to chew, relieving headaches and numbing gums and tongues. The leaves, only legal in that region of the world, were chewed by visitors and the indigenous - i thought they had and interesting yet acquired taste.
The next day I wandered around the lake, genuinely captured by how beautiful it was. In an attempt to see more, me and my friend followed signs for a trail, only to find ourselves wandering among farmlands surrounded by sheep, pigs and unwelcoming looks. After crossing the farms we arrived at a small cafe floating on the lake, selling INCA cola and ran by an Indigenous family. As the sun began to sink and the cold air arose, we managed to catch the last boat back to the main village, eager to see more of the lake outside of Copacobana town.
After waking to a full VEGETARIAN English breakfast the next day, we stumbled across a young boy perched by several motorbikes. Although slightly hesitant due to the motorcycles appearing similar to that used in 'the motorcycle diaries', we agreed to hire it for only a few Bolivianos. It was neither the safest, nor the
strongest however having travelled around Bolivia in buses that sped along cliff edges; I was somewhat used to danger and feeling my life threatened. The young boy demonstrated how it operated and then we mounted the bike.
We twisted around the cobbled backstreets, avoiding the Indigenous women who seemed used to the inconvenient roar of the motor as it tried to move. Upon arriving at hills, I was asked to dismount and walk due to the several attempts of trying to drive up the first hill. The smoke became embarrassing as the bike struggled and I began to feel somewhat of a nuisance to the otherwise harmonious surroundings. I hated the bike increasingly as we passed through farmlands and dogs ran out barking ready to attack predators. Due to the lack of power and thus speed, I came very close to losing my feet!
Although interrupting and frustrating, the bike ran smoother along the flat roads carved into the mountain. Gazing out on to the lake and the rest of Copacabana, I felt like I was in a fairytale, perhaps overlooking Neverland. The sun hit the water perfectly to create wisps of gold along the velvet turquoise blanket.
It seemed unreal like something from a movie which proved dangerous as I found myself wanting to jump from the cliffs into water. Luckily, the hum of the motor allowed me to focus on reality. We continued to float around the mountain, captured by the dazzling lake that remained beside us, spotted with drifting islands. By now, signs of human life had dwindled to fishing nets and the occasional traditional Inca boat that seemed to embody a mixture between Chinese dragons and Viking war ships.
We were surrounded by the epitome of natural beauty, spoiled by the blue lagoon hidden amongst green islands and forests. Perhaps due to it's spectacular location it boasted secrecy and charmed fantasy. It’s legends deem that the Inca god arose from these waters, arousing more sparkle and marvel for its visitors. Continuing to climb the mountain, the panoramic views were breathtaking - quite literally too as the alititude sickness required more coco leaves. This remains one of my highlights of my journey around South America, as I left feeling truly fascinated with how beautiful the views were. We left for Puno the next day, ready to challenge the Peruvian side!
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