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Published: November 9th 2008
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We set off to our first border crossing on our own, filled with the fear of questions we wouldn't understand, surprise entry taxes and full cavity searches. As it turned out, we could've walked straight over the border and no-one would have noticed. Needless to say we didn't but it was a relief to find it all so simple. Arriving in Bolivia at Villazon was an immeadiate culture shock, summed up by saying it's busier, crazier, dustier and certainly poorer (moneywise only). We settled into a cafe for lunch while we waited for our bus north, listening to other travellers stories and the rumour mill instilling more fear into us about our travels in Bolivia. The buses surely can't be that bad can they? Read on my friends!
We boarded our bus to Tupiza, about 4 hours away, along with a selection of Bolivians that seemed to be either moving house or an entire farm (crops only, no animals, much to our relief). The front window was more cracks than window, but luckily we were sat in the middle, where the windows simply shook like atop a pneumatic drill. Hopefully we have managed to load the video filmed on the
bus so you can see what it was like.....Chrissie describes her feelings better than we can explain now.
Arriving at Tupiza we settled into a homely little room at a nice hostel and once we had stopped vibrating from the bus-trip set out exploring. The town itself is very sweet, if small and a little tarnished by it's need to attract the travellers at every corner with hostels, tours and tat. We don't know if it was the wine and altitude combo (or Matt's gentle persuasion tactics / nagging), but something inspired us to get adventurous. We first off booked the four day jeep tour of the local national parks and salt flats, despite knowing it involved accomodation without electric and hot water, the possibility of temperatures well below zero and of course 4 days in a jeep. We'll tackle that in a seperate blog as there's a lot to tell in them 4 days.
We had a spare day before the tour and with little to do in Tupiza decided to take our second shot at adventure - horseriding. That might not sound so adventurous, but those of you who know Matt, or have seen the video
of him being chased over 5 foot drystone walls by 2 horses, will understand his uneasiness around them. Chrissie fairs little better, but insisted she must have been on a horse in her youth sometime but just couldn't remember (Matt wondered if this was mental blocking of a similar incident to his?). Full of omelette and chips, the suggested pre-horse meal I believe, we bravely went to the meeting point. If you look at the pics, the wee little 15 year old was our guide, gulp, oh and he didn't speak a word of English. Nonetheless we mounted up and awaited our instructions on how to go, stop and go left and right. They didn't arrive but the horses seemed to know what they were doing as they trotted after our guides horse, Chrissies appeared to be a jolly thing, full of gusto.
All went rather well for the first 50 yards until the horses got hungry and decided to eat bushes instead of walk. The quick lesson on go, stop, left and right arrived and we were away again. The next couple of hours went pretty smoothly for Matt (other than dropping the camera and howling for help
to get it back), but Chrissie, or rather Chrissie's horse wasn't a fan of smoothly. It clearly attended horse school on the day they did go, but must've been off with a cold the days they did stop, left and right. At points we rode with another group of 2 and their 12 year old guide, but each time we tried to split off to go our own way Chrissie's horse would only follow the other group, even if it meant a damn good canter to get there. Amid squeals and shouts of "I am pulling the bloody reins back, it's still not flaming stopping" Chrissie disappeared over plains and behind bushes on several occassions.
We should also point out the good side, the scenery was rugged and stunning and while the horses behaved it was incredibly tranquil and relaxing. We were in the same part of Bolivia where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid met their makers and it was very easy to get lost in wild west thoughts. Overall, despite the troubles, we both really enjoyed the afternoon and would both definitely get on horses again, possibly at some point further on our travels.
Before signing
off we should mention the rather delicate issue of Chrissies derriere. We are writing this 9 days after the event and the saddle induced sore bottom is almost better. Just remember this when you read the next blog about the 4 days in a bouncy jeep!
Love
Matt and Chrissie
x x x
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Horses
Sorry Chrissie. I think that your only horse riding experience was Uncle Mick's donkeys on Hunstanton beach!!