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Published: April 24th 2007
Canyon Colour & Cactus Country
The cactus set against the colourful walls of the canyon make for a dramatic backdrop to our trail North. The horses were healthy. They had hardly a sweat after galloping across the dry river bed and up into the hills of the canyon’s wall. Their strong hind legs had carried us over 500 metres higher than the plain so we could survey the town of Tilcara below us. Even if someone had tried to follow us, they would not have caught us at the speed these spirited steeds galloped. Not that we had much say in the matter, nor too much control of it either. This was their run - and us gringos were merely attempting to ride gaucho style as we held the reigns loose in one hand and firmly hung on for the ride with the other.
It was a hundred years ago that Butch Cassidy and the Sundance kid blazed this trail North through Argentina to eventually meet their end in the alto plato of Bolivia. Along with Andy, Michelle and Lizzy, we had formed our own “wild bunch” and following Butch’s trail was the best way to shake any tail and make our charge for the border.
We were all a little apprehensive about our first South American overland border crossing - so
Tilcara in Northern Argentina
The view over Tilcara from our Hostel. a few days to lay low and compose our plan was welcomed by all. A small house set on the foothills of one canyon wall served as the ideal hideout. We could watch sun set behind the opposite walls of the canyon before moseying into town for our last Argentinean steak dinner.
The world heritage listed Quebrada de Humahuaca lay to our North. An hour long bus ride to the tourist town of Humahuaca was a temporary diversion from our planning to see the famed, plastic, life-size figure of San Fransisco Solano emerge daily at noon and deliver a benediction to the gathered crowd. This was not really worth the effort. The scenery along the Rio Grande that cut through the imposing, UNESCO World Heritage listed Quebrada Humahuaca was some consolation. This valley has been listed by UNESCO because of its use over the past 10,000 years as a crucial passage for the transport of people and ideas from the high Andean lands to the plains.
The day arrived for us to take the bus to the Argentine border post. There was a small wait to receive our exit stamp and the crossing was uneventful. In Bolivia we
The Canyon Walls
The sunrise on the range and a cup of coffee. View from the Hostal. found an ATM to dispense some Bolivianos and booked a bus to Tupiza (3-hours along a dusty, bumpy dirt road). In Tupiza we signed on for the triathlon: a full day combining mountain bike riding, jeep touring and horse riding through various sections of the unearthly desert formations and ravines around town.
It was November 6, 1908, near San Vicente in southern Bolivia, where Butch and Sundance reputedly committed during a gunfight when their lodging was surrounded. It is a little further East from where we stayed in Tupiza. Unlike Butch and the Sundance Kid, we would escape to ride another day. We already booked our 4-day tour to take us across the Salar de Uyuni that left town tomorrow.
T
We stayed in Hostel Malka (HI affilliated) in Tilcara, Argentina. This was a very relaxing place with free pick-up from the bus station and great breakfast included. In Tupiza, Bolivia - we stayed at Hotel Mitru (the best value accommodation in town) where Tupiza Tours is also located. The border crossing was trouble free and we easily made it from Tilcara to Tupiza in one day. A little Spanish helps to get the right bus information before
Leanne Saddles Up
The Horses arranged for us by Hostel Malka in Tilcara were the healthiest and fittest we have seen. buying your ticket.
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Haggis
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Alpacanotherone (next time).
I like blogupdates like this with plenty of photos. They are easy to read. Could you send over the names of your two horses and where they're next running. I'd like to put $5 each way on them both. But, can you let me know why youse have to duck when you're riding them when there's nothing between you and the sky. Or are the skys real low and altitudes so high over there? Also, could you ask the local Minister for Roads to send a few tips on maintenance and construction over here to the NSW Government and local Council? Their roads look fantastic compared to ours and I'm sure that using their design for the Sydney Cross-City Tunnel would have saved us taxpayers over here a heap of money. Also I like the way their landscape painters over there avoid having to buy expensive canvas and frames and just work directly on the rocks. P.S. I'm a bit worried that this blogupdate carried no mention of the local beer??? Stay well, safe and happy.