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Published: April 1st 2007
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Hill of the Seven Colours
Permamarca . Quebrada de Humahuaca WEEK 15 - TO BOLIVIA
Argentina and Chile are wonderful - a bit like travelling in Europe - but cheaper. I really like something a bit more adventurous and exciting. So pin on the map - and we are about to head for Bolivia, and visit the eastern edge of the Atacama Desert, Salar de Uyuni the largest salt lake in the world and Lake Titicaca! I really appreciate the opportunity to explore such a wonderful world. Nowhere is fool proof - but all things are possible and we have the urge to go!
At last Fe's credit cards arrived courtesy of DHL - 3 weeks after she lost them. It would have been helpful if Nationwide could have organised the transfer - but the cards could only be replaced in 10 working days - and had to be posted to her home address in Hungerford. Her brother had to travel 60 miles to open her mail and dispatch them through DHL.
We left a rainy Salta. Me with a new camera as mine was removed from my bag by cleaning staff. Most annoying as I lost some photographs. Last year I dropped my camera in the
sea in Honduras and had to have a new one!
A lovely journey north through the Quebrada of Humahuaca. We stayed over night in Tilcara and visited Purmamarca and the hill of the seven colours. The geology and the colours were amazing . I am really overawed by this magnificent landscape and can't stop taking photographs.
It was at Tilcara that I sampled llama. Served with onions, carrots and walnuts in a sauce it tasted like veal.
The bus journey north to the border was also beautiful. At the border was a road sign saying Ushuaia 5121km. A reminder of the length of Argentina and the scale of my journey.
And now a new adventure into Bolivia.There was no easy way to cross this border. (Sometimes tour groups run buses which cross the border and the driver helps to show passengers the ropes as to what to do where and when.) We had to take local buses and negotiate the border crossing ourselves. Borders are always a bit stressful. La Quaica-Villazon has the reputation for rampant smuggling due mainly to large droves of of Bolivians who cross the border carrying contraband (mainly coca) in brightly coloured
bundles or hidden in their heavily padded bodies! But we managed fine and cleared the Argentinian exit post, walked over the river to the Bolivian immigration and customs post within the hour.
Bolivia, the size of France and Spain combined is the southern hemisphere's highest, most isolated and must rugged nation. It has unparallelled natural beauty and a range of habitats from the high Andes over 6000m through the altiplano (high plateau 3500-4000m), the eastern fringes of the Atacama Desert, the salt lakes and through the sub tropical zone down to the tropical rain forests of the Amazon Basin.
It has a population of around 9 million, 70% of ethnic origin with strong traditional cultures. It is the poorest country in South America. Living standards are low marked by substandard housing, nutrition, health care and sanitation. There is a high infant mortality rate (57 deaths per 1000,) a high birth rate (3.3 per woman) and a low female literacy rate (77%).
During recent wars it has lost land to Argentina, Peru and Paraguay because of the potential mineral wealth. Politically it is volatile due to the unstable economy. Most income still comes from coca exports
Tupiza Market
bolivian Lady which exceeds all legal agricultural exports combined. American influence in terms of the 'drug wars' aimed to reduce cocaine imports has left many farmers without an income and compensatory payments have never reached the needy. There is much unrest due to powerful grower's unions and the influence of drug trafficking groups.
Villazon was different world. A mix of vibrant indigenous cultures. A more ethnic population - the ladies wearing brightly coloured wonderful full gathered skirts, brightly coloured tops, colourful shawls, woolly leg warmers and bowler hats! A busy street with small market stalls, money changers, local souvenir and artisans shops. We sought out an ATM to get cash and caught the local bus for a 3 hours journey to Tapiza.
Only about 300 yards of tarmac and then a rough dirt track with incredible potholes.Our seats were near the back of the bus over the wheel and the journey was a bit like having a free massage! The vibration from the seat caused my back to tingle as blood reached places in more volume than usual. The bus was crowded with market ladies returning home with huge colourful cloth bundles of unsold goods. The bus conductor busied himself unloading boxes and bundles at each village where the ladies were greeted by dogs and donkeys and the occasional husband with a wheel barrow to carry the bundles home! Every bus stop was enthralling.
The bus rattled along and at one stage it stopped and the conductor lifted the floor and poured 2 gallons of water into a hole at the font of the bus.
Again a desolate landscape with occasional herds of goats near villages. It had been raining and several valleys had a stream of water. One in particular was deep crimson as it carried sediments from the red sandstone mountains. We climbed high into the foothills and through canyons and gorges to reach Turpiza.
The bus station was small. Each company has a little box office to sell their tickets and here was competition - a large advert on the wall for the 'Trans megabus'! ( For my friends from away - Perth is the HQ for both Stagecoach and Megabus!)
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David Wong
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What a wonderful experience and wonderfl trip.