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I was a bit apprehensive as we approached Bolivia. Everyone said 'Watch out for pickpockets, don't leave bags alone, don't walk around in big groups and draw attention to yourself, don't walk around by yourself, only carry the money you need blah blah blah etc etc etc....I was starting to wonder why I had chosen to travel through this obviously way too dangerous country. And now I am glad I chose not to listen because Bolivia has turned out to be one of the highlights.
First up the border crossing between Argentina and Bolivia lived up to all expectations. Lots of people in line carrying everything but the kitchen sink. Children and dogs running everywhere. Even the occasional donkey wandered past. We were lucky to get there just after siesta so made it through the line in about 30 minutes, against the hour and a half that some had already been waiting.
I had an idea that Bolivia was going to be a very poor country and it is, but I didn't realise that it is actually one of the richest countries in the area in terms of resources, and now that they have a new president(first native indian)
who has nationalised the gas, maybe more of the money will go back into Bolivia.
So some highlights of Bolivia.
1. First of all the little village of Tupiza where I spent a night at the hostel watching Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. A movie I had never seen, it was played for the reference to Bolivia and trains and was absolutely hilarious! I don't think it was meant to be a comedy but the fact there was a bicycle riding scene to the tune of ' Raindrops keep falling on my head' in the middle of a train robbing movie seemed so very out of touch with the whole theme..
2. Uyuni and the Salar de Uyuni - The Salar de Uyuni is at an altitude of 3700m in the southwest of Bolivia and covers some 12000 square miles. It is the largest salt bed in the world and driving across it was quite surreal. Clear blue sky above and white underneath for as far as the eye can see. Toñito tours were chosen to take us all on the two day drive through the area and they turned up with jeeps laden with cooking
gear, cooks, drivers and guide and then proceeded to cram as many people into each jeep as possible. In ours there were 7 people plus the driver (who incidentally kept ferreting under the front dash for his coca leaves and played a tape of local music that had only two songs on it!! Yep, two songs over and over for two days straight, no wonder he kept seemimgly falling asleep. At least in the middle of the flats there is nothing to run into). We stopped at a factory where they dry and pack the salt, the old salt hotel, and then headed to Isla Pescado (Fish Island) which is in the centre of the salt. This has a surface of granite and coral and is where a species of giant cactus plants are. It was also an opportunity to take the obligatory funny photos while there is no perspective from other objects.
The night was spent at a place called Bellavista which is on the edge of the plain and on the way there we were lucky enough to see part of the plain still covered in water from recent rain. Second day we woke early to go
watch the sunrise which was pretty spectacular due to the reflections in the water, well worth the 5am start.
Also incidentally Toñito tours was right next to the Toñito Hotel which was an amazing place to stay and also home to Minuteman Pizza. Undoubtedly the best pizza I have tasted for a long time and also with a fantastic jug of sangria!!
3. Potosi - this is the highest city of its size and was at the end of the 18th century the largest and wealthiest city in latin america due to the silver mine in Cerro Rico. It is also where conditions were so bad that the conscripted labourers died in considerable numbers from accidents or disease. Also where I spent two days sick so didn't see much of the surrounds.
4. Sucre - A trip to a quarry where fossilised dinosaur tracks have been uncovered. Was really interesting and an opportunity to get up close for a look before the new tourist centre opens this year and they stop doing tours into the quarry.
5. La Paz - Arriving in La Paz by bus at sunset was quite breathtaking, I thought I was actually
in the city until reaching the lookout and realized that La Paz actually sits in a valley. It looked like a big twinkling bowl.
Had a few days to wander the witches market, plazas and take a trip to the other side of the city where there is yet another moon valley. More warnings about pickpockets preceded a trip to the night markets and once there it was obvious why. Wall to wall people, it was difficult to stop and look at a stall let alone buy anything!
La Paz also provided an opportunity for some adventure and when someone suggested mountainbiking I thought why not!! Having owned a bike for most of my life - even though all were strictly on road versions - I figured a day trip off road for my first experience on an actual mountain bike would be fun. So the hi-aces were loaded up with people, bikes were put on the top and the guides then took us to the top of Yungas Road. This particular road was built by prisoners during Bolivia's 1932-35 war with Paraguay and is basically just carved into the side of the mountain. It is officially the
Bellavista!
Downtown Bellavista, pop.40 although we only actually saw 3 of the locals. A lovely little place where the hot water is turned on from 1730-1900hrs, and the generator for the lights is turned on from 1830-2030hrs. Very civilised!! most dangerous road in the world, nicknamed Death Road for the fact that around 26 or so vehicles plunge off the edge and around 200 people lose their lives every year. It was comforting to know that the nearest hospital is 2 hours away.
Starting at La Cumbre at 4700m above sea level and dropping down through waterfalls and rainforest to Corioco at 1200m on the Amazon rim it was 70 odd km of madness! Beginning with asphalt to lull you into a false sense of security we all were having a great time dodging potholes at 50km an hour and overtaking trucks laden with locals obviously thinking to themselves ''stupid gringos''. Then we descended into the cloud, mist and rain and hit the start of the dirt part of Death Road, all I could help thinking was 'If I was on a motorbike I would be wearing so much more gear!!'
It was at this point we got some extra safety information from our guides.
1. Ride on the left side of the road - fantastic I thought, just like home, and then I realised the cliff side is the left side!!
2. When stopping
Sunrise - Salar de Uyuni
So lucky that there was still some water over part of the salt plains which made the morning even more spectacular get off the right side of the bike so you are further away from the cliff. Common sense I thought and I was intending to stay as far away from then cliff as possible.
3. The best one..Give way to vehicles bigger than you! Duh!!! As if there was going to be some poor fool on rollerblades who had to give way to me!!
Most of the way down the road is maybe one and a half lanes wide with cliff one side and a sheer 1000ft drop on the other side, thankfully covered by cloud most of the way so I couldn't see how far away the ground was. Vehicles travelling up the hill get to drive on the left next to the cliff and also get right of way which makes for interesting viewing when two trucks end in a stalemate and one has to reverse UP the hill.
There was also a section of uphill riding which I didn't expect- fantastic fun at 4000m when you can hardly breathe anyway.
Anyhow to cut a long story short, 5 and a half hours after leaving the top I finally reached the bottom. Not able to feel
my hands from hanging on to the brakes for so long and a bit bruised and soaked after coming off twice- don't worry Mum the first time was nowhere near the edge of the cliff and the second time I landed in a river! - something to do with not remembering to pedal as I was going through thewater!!
Yes, it was fun. And I never want to see another mountain bike ever again!!!
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Libby
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Great photos!
Hey, looks like you're having such a great time! Not much gossip here, can I add Dr Morcom to this blog as a subscriber, I don't think he's as interested in Godfrey as your adventures. Your home is still standing, all is well Have a ball! Libby