Potosi (with a touch of Cochabamba and Sucré)


Advertisement
Bolivia's flag
South America » Bolivia » Potosí Department » Potosi
April 23rd 2006
Published: April 23rd 2006
Edit Blog Post

Total Distance: 0 miles / 0 kmMouse: 0,0


CochabambaCochabambaCochabamba

Taken from our motel balcony. Nice and warm after La Paz but not much to see.
Despite travelling pretty much the length (north to south) of Bolivia in the last couple of weeks, we are neglecting to do blog entries for the cities of Cochabamba and Sucre... Basically these were ok cities to spend a day or 2 but we dont have many great photos or amusing stories so we are going to spare you the mundane details of the 2 generic cities!

We left La Paz on the 14th April and headed 7hours south to Cochabamba, Bolivia´s second (or third depending on which book you read) city. Upon arrival at Coch (as well-seasoned travellers call it) we found an eerie scene of abandoned taxis and busses, which meant walking with the unnecessarily large bags to find a hotel at dusk. We later found out that it wasn´t armageddon, but of course another protest!

After 2 days of floating around the city, checking out the markets and eating in Eli´s pizza again we caught a night bus South to Sucré....... The journey was a bit of a nightmare, with at least 6 breakdowns during the night and frequent calls from the angry masses for "otra flota!" (another bus!) which were ignored by the owner of
Beard-watchBeard-watchBeard-watch

Yeah it´s about 4 weeks since the last shave. You can´t tell. The pie wasn´t too great, hence the expression. (Bit dry, could have done with more lemon etc!)
the bus company who happened to be riding the bus on opposite seats to us (who we have named the worst woman in the world - see pictures).

Spent 2 days in Sucré which is somewhat more attractive than generic Coch but nonetheless with few activities we left for Potosi.

Potosi is the world´s highest city (although La Paz is the highest capital) at 4070m asl and grew on the wealth generated by mining the rich mineral deposits nearby. The city itself is small with narrow, steep and busy streets, which combined with the altitude made it difficult to navigate. The highlight of the visit to Potosi and the reason most travellers visit are the mines.

We spent our 3rd year anniversary bent double, gasping for breath and sweating like beasts working our way through 4 levels of mineral mine with our guide and 2 other travellers.

Mining work began in Potosi in the 1600´s and has continued ever since, with as much mineral remaining as has already been extracted. The mine we visited was owned by a co-operative (sp?) with miners working in teams of 4-16 and each team being paid based on the quality
3am, middle of nowhere.3am, middle of nowhere.3am, middle of nowhere.

This time it was the brakes. Previously we had steam in the cabin, leaking radiator and the starter was broken so every time we stopped, we had to push start the thing. We should have got off when they push started the bus in the station!
and quantity of minerals (zinc, silver and copper) extracted. Some of the teams had bought a drill between them, however the majority worked by hand.

The conditions in the mines were horrific. The tunnels were extremely narrow and required stooping and crawling. The dust combined with the 40+´c heat in the mines is choking and is the reason the guidebooks claim a 10year life expectancy of a Potosi miner (although this was disputed by the guide who claimed the miners were proud and enjoyed their work).

As always we hope the photos will explain more. Sorry for the delay, we have been really busy and in areas without inet access and have another blog to do in the next few days.

Crossed border to Argentina yesterday after a monster trip of 36hours and are currently in Salta.

Lots of Love

R+C




Additional photos below
Photos: 20, Displayed: 20


Advertisement

Worst woman in the world. Ever.Worst woman in the world. Ever.
Worst woman in the world. Ever.

Pure Evil. Oh and she HATED me taking her photo, threatened to throw the camera out of the window.
SucréSucré
Sucré

Sucre. Good for a few days but we had a spot of bad weather. See, it´s not that unlike England!
Shoe-shine Sir?Shoe-shine Sir?
Shoe-shine Sir?

One of the more upmarket shoe-shiners in Potosi. Elsewhere they are 6-10yr olds in balaclavas. Apparently they go to school in the morning and shoe shine in the afternoon.
DynamiteDynamite
Dynamite

On the way to the mines, we stopped and bought coca leaves, pop and of course dynamite (see the sticks!) as gifts for the miners.
Bomb-maker in training.Bomb-maker in training.
Bomb-maker in training.

The white stick is the dynamite, the wire is the fuse and detonator (the ´dangerous´ bit) and the little white bag is nitrogylcerine pellets to make the explosions more powerful. There are no laws against selling these to anyone. We bought 2.
Guide / miner / bomb-makerGuide / miner / bomb-maker
Guide / miner / bomb-maker

The guide made up a dymamite ´bomb´ by rolling the dynamite into a ball, sticking in the detonator/fuse and putting into a plastic bag with the nitroglcyerine pellets. He lit the fuse and started passing it around. "It´s ok, we have 1minute! Tell your mother" he said!
Boom!Boom!
Boom!

After 30 seconds of pass the parcel he took it away and ran!
MineMine
Mine

Just inside the entrance, comparatively comfortable.
Mine IIMine II
Mine II

After a couple of hundred meters it got really sweaty, dusty and cramped. These miners push their heavy trucks (which they load with shovels) all the way back out of the mine. 800tonnes a DAY is moved by this method.
"Dust? ´ave a bit of dust...""Dust? ´ave a bit of dust..."
"Dust? ´ave a bit of dust..."

You can just make out Chris trying to filter the dust with his t-shirt. They were drilling in front of us and the noise and dust was unbearable.
"You´re Joking right?""You´re Joking right?"
"You´re Joking right?"

As an extra ´treat´our guide took us down another level. There was a 100ft vertical shaft with some wooden ladders. The guide explained, "step 2 is dogdy, as is step 4 and 5 and there isnt a step 6."
Hard workHard work
Hard work

This guy had been there all day, alone, hammering a steel bar into the rock so that he can dynamite tomorrow. It took him 2 days to make 2 holes deep enough to put in some explosives (50cm deep)
Finally, fresh air!Finally, fresh air!
Finally, fresh air!

The view from the exit / entry of the mine. It was a great relief to excape after 2 hours of hell. We have no idea how people work down there, no wonder they chew coca 24/7.
Happy Anniversary!Happy Anniversary!
Happy Anniversary!

We had a really romantic day in our best outfits as you can see!
Ore-processingOre-processing
Ore-processing

Once the miners remove the ore, they begin refining it. Here is 30tonnes being unloaded. It is then sorted by hand and shovel.
Ore-processing IIOre-processing II
Ore-processing II

Various chemicals are added to the ore and these mixers seperate the metal (in this case silver) and it floats to the top where it is skimmed off.
Ore-processing IIIOre-processing III
Ore-processing III

The final product. It´s then sent abroad (mainly the UK and Canada) for processing into what we would recognise as silver.


23rd April 2006

On Returning to U.K.
After the photos re trainee and instructor expect a little delay on returning!!
25th April 2006

wow some great shots. Looks as though it ws a bit scary in the mine particularly with the live dynamite. Luv mom xxx
1st May 2006

Hi Chris and Rach Keep enjoying yourselves, the views look great.. Stay safe. Thinking of you love Jo and Steve xx

Tot: 0.127s; Tpl: 0.011s; cc: 18; qc: 83; dbt: 0.0776s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1; ; mem: 1.2mb