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Published: August 7th 2007
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Coca, coca, coca, coca!
This stuff is great for chewing to help with the altitude. it saved me during the salar de Uyuni trip. Sometimes when im at work I think about how crappy it is, Dirty nappies, Sputum flying at my head, Vomit on my shoulder, a million and one things to do without an option of squeezing in a break. But my work conditions, stress and energy requirements are nothing compared to that of the mining men (and Boys) of Potosi.
Postosi is 3967mt above sea level and was founded in the 1540's, a town that became well known for its silver mining. As Gringos we had the opportunity to visit the mines of Cerro Rico to learn about the life of the miners. After suiting up in vinal pants, tops, gumboots, belt, hardhard (with light) and Battery, we headed to the miners market to purchase some gifts for the miners. At the shop we were introduced to 2 types of dynamite the Bolivan made one (excellent) and the Peruvian one (Crap), after a few jokes about terrorism, we got on with the explaining of each of the items, from the miners lights to the 96% alcohol that they drink. We fortunate souls had the pleasure (not) of sampling this 96% alcohol, after a little drop to the floor (offering to Pachamama), we
Hard at work
Miners run whilst pushing these carts full of rubble drank from the lid of the bottle. I hesitated after remembering that the Alcohol swabs we use at work, come very close to the alcohol concentration I was about to consume. After a quick swig, the inside of my oesophagus was burning and my face contorted into something only a mother could love. Jesus it was horrible! Apart from buying dynamite, we also got some soft drink, coca leaves and chocolate for the miners to get them through the rest of the day.
Prior to entering the mines we stopped by the processing factories where they churn, sieve and wash the rubble to turn it into muddy sparking paste. It was so loud, plus we had to slide under a wooden beam to get into one part, the guide warned us, "dont touch that bit above, the wires are open and are live", PERFECT, we all had a giggle at the common Bolivian standard of workmanship and swung ourselves under without getting an electric shock. Back on board the mini bus, we crammed in as left to make its way up to the mines. Climbing, climbing climbing (in a schreeching 2nd gear) we arrived and piled out with our
Miners Market
"Dynamite?" "check"
"Soft drinks?" "check"
"Coca Leaves?" "Check" bags of softdrink, coca leaves, chocolate and dynamite. There were a few miners outside at that time, their faces grey with fine dust and many eyes fell apon the goodies we held in our hands! Someone bought up some peanuts, but apparantly they were not allowed inside the mine for some reason, so there were a couple of very enthousiastic miners willing to take the nuts off their hands. When it came time to enter the mine, was had to wait for the men who had ran up from as low as 50mt pushing a huge cart of rubble, then there was the engine that was pushing a couple of carts, then we had to wait for them to off load, and come back to enter the mine again. As I walked into the mine, and flicked my light on, I thought to myself that it wasn't that bad, I can handle this. Then the guide started to walk faster, it started to get darker and harder to breathe. I may mention at this point that I had purchased a bandana to wear over my nose and mouth, as well as a white face mask with elastic to hold it
Getting a Bull by its horns!
I stumbled across this man hacking at this bulls head and I thought it would make a great picture. on (like the ones you had to wear during woodwork in high school). So I had double protection and double heat, and eventually I ditched the white mask. At the beginning, the group (12 of us) entered a room that had a Devil statue and numerous facts about the mine and the miners, apparently the most common cause of death is infectious respiratory diseases.
Continuing on our tour, the air became hotter and thicker, the paths became smaller and more difficult as we slid though gaps in the floor and through tunnels on our hands and knees. It was very hard! Close to one of the most frightning real things I have done. And it wasn't frightening cause I was in an itsy bitsy tunnel 20 Meters below ground with the possible chance of a cave in, but because there were men and boys that were working in there all day every day. They did the hard yards, they worked in the mines knowing they would get sick and die long before they should just to help their family out. I was there as a tourist on a hour tour, and It was bloddy hard. At one point we
Cheeks togther girls!
At the Llama market in Potosi visited a man who was making holes for the dynamite to go in, sweat was dripping down the faces of all the group as we watched and asked the man questions sitting in a hole (cave) in the side of the wall. When we exited a huge wave of nausea came over me and I joined Marco in the "im not feeling to crash hot group" but the only way was down and to keep going! The most enjoyable part was sliding down a 50mt shaft lined with wood, of course we didn't sit on it like a slide but we had to ease ourselves down the 45 degree angle as to not rip our trousers. When we finally reached the bottom, we had a breather (as much as we could) and took a group photo and made our way back up. Someone had mentioned a lift and I stupidly believed that they would have one, not using my common sense. Imagine my face when I realised we had to crawl back up through passages and pull up onto poles and platforms. It was the hardest physical part, I gasped for air climbing the stairs to my bedroom at this
altitute, let alone 50mt underground with someones ass in my face in a dusty cramped tunnel with no way out. We eventually made it out and were rewarded with out guides lighting some dynamite in the hill as we watched it explode.
Visiting the mines of Cerro Rico is something I will never forget, we were visitors, but the miners are there for a long time, It made me really sad. We were told that a 14yr old boy had died 2 weeks earlier from a cave in, they are not ment to work there so young, but sometimes they have to to support their mother and siblings. I did some reasearch after my experience and came across a site about a movie called
. Its a documentary about a Boy and his brother working in the mines and the impact on his family. Its really interesting and may give you a better insite into the mines than my terrible drawl.
After visiting the mines, there was a long hot shower to try and wash out all the fine dust from ears, hair, nose etc. We visited a hot spring the next afternoon and had a few Trachea and Lungs anyone?
mmm, so tasty how cna anyone resist? I took this at Potosi market. beers (as we do best) chatting about European Music groups in the 90's while the boys had swimming races. It was decided to stay an extra day in order to witness the Llama sacrificing day. Once a month on a saturday the miners and their families purchase Llamas from the Farmers (on the street) and haul them into their trucks (or vans and jeeps as we also witnessed). After the Llamas are taken to the mine their necks are sliced and the blood is collected to splash on the walls outside the mines and the offices of the mine. We tried to join more than one of these trucks, but they weren't to keen for gringos to tag along, so we walked along this street and came across an office building with blood splashed on the front of the building and the gate wide open. They invited us inside and answered our questions while they skinned the Llamas, preparing for the celebration afterwards. We gave them gifts of Coca leaves and firecrackers for the kids as thanks for letting us watch. The Llamas are sacrificed for good luck in the mines, I was a bit upset that we didn't actually
Potosi Market - not only for bizzare innards
They also sell fruit and veg at potosi market, but the blood and guts are more interesting. get to see the sacrificing in action, but oh well.
After Potosi, we headed to Sucre, a very non Bolivian town full of very European looking buildings, and a Dutch bar frequented by most Gringos. We gave ourselves a well deserved night out, full of Mojito's and Dancing (Toilet paper Ties for some) and spoilt ourselves with good food.
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Glenn
non-member comment
Gringo esta loco!
You are insane! There's NO WAY I would go down in those mines, that sort of thing isn't for me. And what kind of sadist have you turned into? "didn't actually get to see the sacrificing in action, but oh well" I guess the skinning of that bull will have to do! Take care ox