Bloody strikes!

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Cusco - Puno - Lake Titicaca - La Paz

So we got the First Class (the name of the bus) to Puno from Cusco - 8 hours, 3 stops. Definitely recommend it, as it breaks the long journey. Stopped at Andahuaylillas, yet another church, dubbed the ‘Sistine Chapel’ of South America, but nah, don’t think so, just another tourist puller.

The second stop in Raqchi was better - amazing Andean scenery (haven{t got sick of the mountains), old Inca temples, vast farming space, simple and unobtrusive local housing, wild vicunias and llamas running around. We then stopped at this random dusty town, walking through typical markets selling all kinds from dead snakes (for medicinal purposes), to cocaine leaves to kitchen sinks. Was nice to see traditionally dressed women - big puffy skirts, bowler hats, two plaits - wearing their vestidos for themselves and not for the tourists. Apparently the Spanish imposed this dress when they conquered all those years ago.

The next day we did a tour of the Uros and Taquile Islands. The lake is HUGE, so vast and so blue it looks more like the Med than a lake. Mad to think that it stands 3600m above sea level, this massive expanse of water where, in one part, people have used the reed growing naturally in the lake to make habitable islands - this was Uros. I loved it, so different from anything I have ever seen, seeing people living on reed, that they had planted themselves, layer upon layer, their straw looking houses, made of reed and their cute boats, yes made of reed - and no cars! Although my Dad wouldn{t have liked to have stayed in Uros because of the lack of usual comforts (where does the toilet stuff go?), I would stay on Uros just for the experience. Taquile was also beautiful, more developed, bigger and amazing views of the Bolivian snow capped mountains and the peacock blue mesmorizing lake.

The next day we had planned to spend the night in Copacobana, in Bolivia, doing a tour of the Isla del Sol - but the bloody strike! One thing i{m learning here is don’t plan, and if you do plan, which I actually can’t function without doing, at least think of a plan B, plan C, plan D….if things don’t go to, well, plan - very likely in Peru and
Bolivia. On the night before we were supposed to travel to Copocabana, our guide broke the news that unfortunately we could not stay in Copocabana because there is a big organized strike in La Paz, where transport is demobilized in and out of the city - and because Dad was leaving from La Paz to go back home in a few days, we needed to be in La Paz before the big ‘bandh’ or freeze. So plan B - make our way to Copocabana, do the Isla del Sol tour, then take a taxi directly to La Paz after the tour, thus ensuring we were safely in La Paz before the freeze and Dad’s flight. Sounded good until our coach was forcefully stopped by angry Peruvian teachers on protest about having to take some exam - stuck in this dirty place called Llave for 4 hours, watching the teachers burning tyres, throwing glass on the road to stop any vehicle getting past over the bridge and onto Copocabana. Say goodbye to the Island tour. In the end we had to get a taxi, miss Copocabana, and drive directly to La Paz, which was manic itself, preparing for the big freeze the following day.

So here I am in La Paz, Dad left today, so solita once more. Just when I started to miss him, got distracted by being mugged for my watch - so spent most of the afternoon at the police station making my statement. Need to get out of this congested, iron clad city, so doing the death road/world’s most dangerous road tomorrow. Adventure adventure adventure!!!

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Photos

Uros Island
All made of reed. Fascinating...

Llave
Gridlock as the angry protesters halt the infrastructure

Comments

[Huwie]

Cliffhanger
And did Ms. Ruby survive the world's most dangerous road? Reading your blog really stirs me, I am excited about the chance to go travelling again!! My best friend is coming to China for Christmas/New year, and hopefully we'll go somewhere. It's great that you're maintaining the blog, keep the posts and the photographs coming. I'm gonna be in China a while longer, I now have a job with a British property company (Savills, do you know them?) in the valuation dept. doing various things really under the loose title analyst. It's something different to studying at uni, and am gonna see how it goes for a while!! Keep in touch! Xxx