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Published: July 22nd 2010
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La Paz
This view is from Alto -- a barrio above the city center. La Paz is dissonant music for all the senses. The houses between El Alto and the city center hang precariously off a steep cliff, and the only escape for the eyes are the white-capped mountains. Elevation varies over 1000 meters and here, the poor look literally down on the rich; officers dressed as zebras and donkeys direct traffic; men hanging from colectivos rap their prices and destinations; locals huddle on stools shoveling in street food; protests close down whole sections of the city (and are accompanied with fireworks and chants and riot police ); shoeshiners wear ski masks to hide their faces (social stigma, apparently); the markets are hallmarks of ownership and competition, even for ´witches´with their potions and relics.
I RECOMMEND:
- The Adventure Brew Hostel, which has excellent beer (a nice relief in South America), amazing hot showers, some of the best food I´ve had in S.A., and two buildings overflowing with character. They can´t keep reservations, though, so follow up often, and don´t leave any technology in luggage storage -- the security guards will steal it. Talk to Umberto if you have any problems -- he manages the place. His English is excellent and he genuinely
Parque
This is a view of the city from the central park, which will be amazing once it´s completed. wants to please his guests.
- The Coca Museum (It gives the history of the plant, much of it from a local indigenous perspective, but also highlighting its benign and malignant uses; it´s near the witch market)
- Pico Verde (Spanish language school; Sagarnaga Street #363 www.pico-verde.com... they are cheap, their tutors are very capable, and the management is accommodating. I learned quite a bit.)
- Honey Tours (Located on Comercial right off Plaza Murillo, across from the Wild Rover Hostel, this agency is good for arranging Pampas tours. I paid 1550 Bolivianos for a three day tour, including accommodations, food, and a round trip flight (instead of a 22 hour bus)).
- Walks through the non-tourist markets. (From Plaza San Fran, walk up the hill till you hit it all. It´s fun to get lost in there. For an even more genuine experience, head to Alto on Thursdays or Sundays; on Avenida 16 de Julio is a poorer, more raw version.)
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