La Paz

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La Paz is dissonant music for all the senses. The houses between El Alto and the city center hang precariously off a steep cliff, and the only escape for the eyes are the white-capped mountains. Elevation varies over 1000 meters and here, the poor look literally down on the rich; officers dressed as zebras and donkeys direct traffic; men hanging from colectivos rap their prices and destinations; locals huddle on stools shoveling in street food; protests close down whole sections of the city (and are accompanied with fireworks and chants and riot police ); shoeshiners wear ski masks to hide their faces (social stigma, apparently); the markets are hallmarks of ownership and competition, even for ´witches´with their potions and relics.

I RECOMMEND:

- The Adventure Brew Hostel, which has excellent beer (a nice relief in South America), amazing hot showers, some of the best food I´ve had in S.A., and two buildings overflowing with character. They can´t keep reservations, though, so follow up often, and don´t leave any technology in luggage storage -- the security guards will steal it. Talk to Umberto if you have any problems -- he manages the place. His English is excellent and he genuinely wants to please his guests.

- The Coca Museum (It gives the history of the plant, much of it from a local indigenous perspective, but also highlighting its benign and malignant uses; it´s near the witch market)

- Pico Verde (Spanish language school; Sagarnaga Street #363 www.pico-verde.com... they are cheap, their tutors are very capable, and the management is accommodating. I learned quite a bit.)

- Honey Tours (Located on Comercial right off Plaza Murillo, across from the Wild Rover Hostel, this agency is good for arranging Pampas tours. I paid 1550 Bolivianos for a three day tour, including accommodations, food, and a round trip flight (instead of a 22 hour bus)).

- Walks through the non-tourist markets. (From Plaza San Fran, walk up the hill till you hit it all. It´s fun to get lost in there. For an even more genuine experience, head to Alto on Thursdays or Sundays; on Avenida 16 de Julio is a poorer, more raw version.)

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Photos

La Paz
This view is from Alto -- a barrio above the city center.

Parque
This is a view of the city from the central park, which will be amazing once it´s completed.

Traffic2
Chaos.

Protest
Here are local artesans protesting something.

WitchMarket Stall
Notice the shrunken birds and llamas...

Founding of La Paz
This parade seemed to go on all day....

Zebra
Yes, that´s a policeman dressed as a zebra directing traffic....

Field
This is how to fix a futbol pitch...