Blogs from Chuquisaca Department, Bolivia, South America - page 13


After checking out of our hostel we began the laborious and expensive task of posting home some presents, souvenirs and no longer needed winter clothes. 40 quid for 4kg seemed cheap after DHL quoted us 130 pounds, which I nearly agreed to after doing the currency conversion very wrong and thinking it was 13 pounds! We returned to Mayapata for lunch with a view and spent what was left of our day before another night bus in the museum of Indigenous Art. I had thought it was just going to be a few examples and history of different styles of weaves and some women weaving, but it was so much more! We got an A5 guide book about 30 pages long to guide us around the 13 rooms of exhibitions. I had no idea of the ... read more
Weaving at the Museum
Weaving at the Museum
Weaving at the Museum

This morning we set off in the dino truck to see 65-68 million year old dinosaur footprints. We were joined, coincidentally, by a couple from Manchester, Jenny and Gareth, who gave us more advice on where to live! The site has the most dinosaur footprints found anywhere in the world, bizarrely located on a vertical wall (tectonic plate movement had obviously moved them from their horizontal position). 5,000 footprints from 3 herbivores and 1 carnivore, we learnt how to distinguish between them based on whether they had hips like a lizard (the carnivores and long legged herbivores) which meant their left and right prints were parallel, or hips like a bird which resulted in prints turning either in or outward. Then of course the shape of the print and the number of toes. Unfortunately we had ... read more
The Wall of Footprints!
To scale!
Can you tell what it is yet??

Sucre (that got its name from a previous president, not the sugar) is Bolivia’s official capital, even though the seat of the government as well as two of the three democratic powers (executive and legislative; the court of justice is still in Sucre.) are situated in La Paz. Never offend a local by mentioning that La Paz is the capital of Bolivia! Sucre is also called La Ciudad Blanca - the white city - due to its white painted facades in the town centre. So in the end it is a white sugar town indeed. However, my personal highlight was experiencing the huge Central Market with its wide range of colours, smells, different people and food. There is nothing better than taking a seat on one of the small wooden chairs and having a freshly pressed ... read more
somewhere in Sucre
walking up the hill
pink girl in a white town

Breakfast at "Backpackers Hostel" was as stingy as the reviews had suggested - 2 bread rolls with only enough butter and jam to cover half of one! But we weren't complaining at only 4.50 (pounds) each for our private room! We set off to climb the tower of a church on top of a hill for a good view of the city - but I got distracted by a market and the church closed before we got there. Still got an excellent view though, and some more brilliant purchases at the market to decorate our house in Manchester! No doubt the colours of Bolivia might be a bit colourful for our place in the UK, which I see as an excuse to buy enough to cover the place! In fact I've already planned a trip back ... read more
Smoothie anyone?
Chilling in the Plaza

So our hostel didn't have our reservation from but luckily had a room free. Wanting some privacy we had opted for a "matrimonial" room (avoiding our mistake in Uyuni of asking for a "doble" and getting a twin!) which was the biggest bargain of the trip at 9 quid for the room, TV included! Dumping our bags we headed into town for some brekkie - not having eaten since a piece of cake at 5pm the previous day! We had a hearty English style breakfast (scrambled eggs and bacon for me and an omelette for Chris) and then had the camera out for non-stop photo taking as we strolled through the numerous squares, churches and streets lined with magnificently white ornate buildings. After checking into our room properly (I have to laugh when hostels review ... read more
The plaza, Sucre
Our hostel

South America » Bolivia » Chuquisaca Department » Sucre March 27th 2010

The road from Uyuni to Potosi was half paved half gravel and wound round hills and mountains heralding spectacular views across wild terrain. The bus stopped occasionally in remote villages to pick up passengers and make the most of the limited space on board. The smooth paved section was a god-send and we were soon approaching Potosi - a historic town with a checkered mining history. Potosi basically bankrolled the Spanish empire thanks to the fruits born from Cerro Rico - Rich Mountain. Silver was discovered here in 1556 and the Spanish wasted no time in exploiting the local indigenous labour force to extract it. The silver from the mountain was crucial to the Spanish Empire and helped them fund their armies and continued expeditions on the continent. The silver was shipped to Spain where much ... read more
Bus to Potosi
Streets of Potosi
Miners Gift

South America » Bolivia » Chuquisaca Department » Sucre March 27th 2010

Last night was yet another nightbus journey for me, this time to Sucre, the official capital of Bolivia. It was supposed to take around ten hours but two hours into the ride, the bus broke down in the absolute middle of nowhere. We had to wait another 2 hours for a replacement to arrive. When the new bus turned up, it was a bit bigger so I was lucky enough to have two seats to myself and was able to curl myself into a ball across them and sleep. That is until a girl trying to sell corn decided to take a seat on my head and then upon awakening, a man asked if the seat was free and I had to give it up. Good while it lasted though. 17 hours after leaving Cochabamba on ... read more
Sucre convent

South America » Bolivia » Chuquisaca Department » Sucre March 12th 2010

I didn´t love my time in Sucre - not its fault - so this might not be the most enthusiastic blog you´ve ever read. Sucre is the consitutional capital of Bolivia and is rather handsome. It feels fairly small and the roads are so narrow that the cars honk at every intersection. There´s a big square full of trees in the middle of town and the buildings are all white. Around the city are pyramid-shaped scrubby hills. The weather in Sucre while I was there was always very pleasant - warm and sunny. I was planning on staying in Sucre for 3-4 weeks and doing some voluntary work at Fox Academy while also learning Spanish. Unfortunately Fox was pretty disorganised and this is the main reason I didn´t stay. I had been trying to find out ... read more
Sucre (1)
Sucre (7)
Sucre (14)

South America » Bolivia » Chuquisaca Department » Sucre March 11th 2010

Sucre - A Children's Crusade I arrived in the Bolivian city of Sucre at the same time as the holy relics of a modern day saint. It was not my intention to do so, and I doubt it was his either. As I crossed the main plaza in Sucre beneath the tall trees and the stern gaze from the statue of the city's founder, General Sucre, I saw a large gathering forming in the far corner of the square. The crowd comprised mostly of school children between the ages of 11 and 16, as well as a few parents, locals and bemused tourists. A procession was forming along the street leading into the square. I could see several vehicles, flags and blue and white balloons all gathering together in the narrow road between brilliant white colonial ... read more

South America » Bolivia » Chuquisaca Department » Sucre March 10th 2010

So i spent another two weeks in Sucre. Nice place. good people, easy life, cheap Spanish and German lessons being the reasons. Apart from studying and eating more good food, I went to a soccer match between Universatario v Auruoa, el mercado de los Campasienos. a tribute to Soda Stereo, a festival in Tarabuco and a military parade. The soccer game between Universitario and Auruoa ended up with a scoreline of 4-3 to the home team (Universatario). The game itself was good with some great goals scored, but the atmosphere was like a North Harbour Rugby game, not what i´d come to expect in South America! You could even bring your kids along it was that tame, no barbed wire fences were evident, the walk to the stadium was completely safe and i only saw two ... read more

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