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Published: December 30th 2010
Captains log day 2:
In the knick of time Aerolineas Argentinus (AA) called me at the hosteria and lo n behold the lost luggage had been located and sent to Ushuaia airport! So 2 remises (taxis) later at their expense I got the walking shoes on and headed uphill towards Martial Glacier having only 90 minutes to spare before due pick up, and planning to rendezvous with the same taxi driver for a return trip in time to meet the boat (1 hour beforehand). He never turned up, so I hailed another who had delivered a girl at the trailhead and went safely back to hosteria to retrieve backpack and await Quark pick up (which failed, disorganized sounding). So I donned the backpack and walked myself there, and oh how it felt…..).
Embarkation at 4pm was prompt but cast off not until vital introduction to ship life at 5pm and some scoping out of the sauna, gym, library and deck space with my new room-mate, a medical student from Texas. Passports handed in, itineraries for onwards flight confirmation given over (confirm, reconfirm and reconfirm again is rule!), a safety briefing for evacuation in case of fire or sinking and
we were off by 6.40pm into the at the time calm Beagle channel……that soon gave way that evening after a late dinner at 8.30pm to rocky ocean swells and a night of unrest and bloodshot eyes the next day. Most of us crashed out on phenergan given out to all by 10pm (sunset at 11pm), or added to motion sickness by propping up the bar eating salted nuts out of small carafes (to stave of infection). Two rules of ship life according to Doctor Mike – don’t fall over and wash your hands!!
Discovering the gym was a gem, the old burnt CD’s half decent and the 6am workout (could not sleep) an exciting game of lean back now forwards as using the epileptic trainer which squeaked. No treadmill though, conveyor belt gets too worn out crossing the Drake! Speaking with other’s about the food, it was miserly and unlikely to sustain a XC skiing expedition on one tasty if small snapper fillet and 2 mini pieces of broccoli/ cauliflower the night before. Where were those carbs? Seems I was only one feeling this way. Breakfast fortunately was a vast improvement – eggs any which way, basic cereal, toast,
fruit, yoghurt and a great change of 3 meals of bread, ham and cheese as I had had before!
The next few days involved crossing of the Drake Passage, safety briefings for the zodiac trips, information about the Antarctic Treaty and our environmental obligations, fittings of gear, our proposed schedule and direction (dictated by weather and other ships), and lectures on the bird, rock and sea life below the 60th parallel. Crossing the Antarctic convergence the evening of December 21st the mist appeared, evidence of the warmer ocean meeting the icy waters of geographical Antarctica that later on cleared to fine skies and a breezy morning the next day. There is a terse relationship they say between Argentine and Chilean officials about the ‘dotted’ political line and our Russian helmsman worked skillfully to weave in and out of each dot so as not to irritate political relations! That day the weather came from the NW and usually this spells trouble but so far so good and tentative planning for XC skiing at Livingston island was made, a peak never before climbed but very familiar to our guide, Milton. Fingers crossed this 4km trek will go safely and spectacularly. Surrounding
us is extensive birdlife (petrels, Fulmars, Prions and albatrosses to name a few) and the purest air in the world.
December 23 dawned with plans to go XC skiing and a “world first” (seemed every one was, hhmmmm…) ascent of Livingston island having crossed Bransfield Strait. It was true adventuring with Milton at the helm, guiding us around the danger zones/ identifying crevasses with and without ropes. This took practice, and many times when gtrying to let my rope kiss the ground I face planted the snow, being pulled along by an enthusiastic leader or back by hooked rope under someones skiis. The metaphor of ‘give and take’ for life very much rang true here, and to look out for others and their individual pace especially in cravass zones. A 3-4km ski over with, the race to meet the zodiacs began knee deep in snow at the rocky shoreline, including some close penguin and seal encounters, curious as they were and in relaxed ‘arm flapping’ stance. Back at the ship by 12 we had time for a warm shower, warm food and Christmas cheer-making that afternoon decorating the ship. Later, we passed into the Deception island caldera and Whalers
Bay where live many whaling relics, an air hangar, rusting large tins for blubber stores surrounded by a cavernous crater, the site of scientific research and off limits to us visitors. We wandered and waited in the silence and those stupid enough swam, me included – air and sea temperature about 1C. Topped off with sauna at the ship and a late if hearty meal, more activity was planned the next day.
But there is only so much activity one can take and I hankered for a lie in and more time to meet new people as I have done a lot of each meal. A rise at 6.30am and another hearty ship breakfast at 7am we left by 7.45am having cruised into Mikkelsen harbour on the southern aspect of Herschel Bay that morning. Trinity Bay was our destination for landing and the start of a December 24th XC ski ascent of a peak 400m high over a distance of 7.5km. Averaging 12.6km/ hour, we switch-backed to the summit, luckily having skiis with good skins that held their traction on the icy slopes (learning to traverse was an exercise!). The views were spectacular and the descent thrilling, fast for
those with alpine experience and slow for me without confidence to skim down, switch-backing again with one of the guides help. The next descent it was an Australian’s chance to be last, and when assumptive statements like ‘don’t all kiwis ski?’ by the Quark guide were made I thought “Do all Australian’s drink 4X?” …. Or “are all American’s loud?”.. ..…. sterotypes eh? Put me in a zodiac, no worries, endurance sport, I survive, but alpine downhill on icy slope is scary. We also managed a stint at an un-named island’s curious Gentoo penguin colony and sighted the slothful Weddell seals. Afternoon came time to cruise the famous area of Cierva Bay named so after the some man responsible for inventing the helicopter, and we had some great encounters with blue icebergs, pack and flow-ice (trying to box us in and play havoc with zodiac motor!), whales waggling their tails and in feeding frenzies about our boat. Attempts to try a practice mountaineering climb as planned were stymied due to inability to land twice (a lot of pack ice) and of where we potentially could there was the chance of being frozen in after 3 hours when the zodiac would
pick us up. Aborted and ending Christmas Eve with a sauna, nice meal and carols made this enjoyable and talking with others on the ship, THIS felt like Antarctica, finally.
Chronically sleep deprived but keen to make most of Xmas Day, I caved and met the others at gangway by off 5.30am to climb Spiggotts Peak, first mountaineering expedition and first for being on Antarctic continent! Gearing up with crampons, we set off by 6am, only a 5 minute trip on calm seas from our anchored ship. No ice stopping our berthing, the 300 metre or so climb took 2.5 hours in total, with 2 sets of rope work and much firm guidance with ‘French’ (footwork) technique. “Ice climbers are try-hards” so our guide reckoned and put themselves in danger if all crampon spikes do not contact ice, moving in a carioca fashion as we traversed. Falling from a slippery mountain is a very real possibility! Mild ankle sprain coming down, stalking skuas and an isolated Chinstrap colony of shitting penguins completed the experience, even getting to slide down on backsides to meet the zodiac. Feeling weary and sore, I tried to join the group for the afternoon climb
but taking the hard pill of my own medicine was needed. My gut told me it was unsafe too, and another trekker was forcefully encouraged to climb despite her reservations and mountain experience - Quark guides made me sit at bottom of small but highly technical peak for 5 hours in the snow and cold of a glacier; returning to ship 6 hours after leaving for a late dinner was not the best experience and better introductory education and communication very much required - on trail ‘advice’ half way to the summit that we could barely hear for the wind noise was a poor substitute!! Final continent day was the best. Passing on the morning ski, the ship navigated around the Neumayer Strait, Dorian Bay, Paradise Bay and included a leisurely stop at Brown Base. The afternoon ski lasted 3 hours (9km) across the old airstrip at Dorian Bay in soft powder, around crevasses and with 20-30 knot side winds. Incredible views over jagged peaks capped in ice and snow down to the waters edge. We even got to summit the accumulation zone on the Glacier, safely it felt, and try my hand at slow downhill skiing.
Ankle holding
Deception Island
Deftly navigating the elephant ship into the sound, the captain failoed to deliver on the advertised thermal waters, unless post swim saunas are counted....up, I tested out the modest Russian crew gym the following day (guests may use), with rower and XC ski trainer, and had fair success. 48 hours plus ice plus 3 anti-inflammatories later…so hope I will be on track for Torres trek in early January. What turned out to be the final continental day (December 27th) was spent at Port Lockroy, posting cards to family/ friends and bracing selves against subzero wind-chilled temperatures with more chinstrap penguins flirting with us, getting amorous with each-other and masquerading as Bluebird chip advert extras plunging into the ocean. A night auction completed our December 27th departure from the magnificent white land, in one case a ship map with crew drawings on it selling for $4,200USD! I am amongst wealthy North American tourists or high flying international execs, whereas the more modest of us donate to conservation by buying trinkets like Quark temperature gauges or “I support the Albatross” patches.
Another day of rest later and we finally left the Minke, Humpback and Killer whale rich sea of Fournier Bay, entered the Gerlache Strait and headed NW, succumbing to the convergence’s misty high swelled waters for the 2nd time. 200 nautical miles north
at 11am on the 28th, the trip of tossing and turning back 800 miles to Ushuaia and did not let up until 100 miles south of Cape Horn, entering the Beagle channel the afternoon of the 29th about 7pm - this clashed with mountaineering drinks promised but seems we were all distracted by the sight of land!!! More lectures and snoozes and a final dinner completed the journey and we were encouraged to part with more cash for gratuities, at our discretion – 120 to 150USD was suggested amount, per person. I gave mine to the Russian housekeeper that made my bed each day or the crew that leant me their sunglasses when mine went missing! Last minute these were returned to me by Kiwi steward Duncan, so I have not lost everything just yet!
Back in Ushuaia now, it is the process of catching up on 2 weeks of emails, checking in with bank accounts, and sorting out problems like my phone that does not work, and thrown in with some sightseeuing to a local museum. Well sleep deprived it is nigh time for a siesta and the crank the pace down from 2 weeks of going mad
POlar plunge for the crazies
Get those clothes on as quick as poss and head for the sauna on board! at sea - I can dance to my own tune for a bit and travel the real way, cheaply and modestly. Being amongst wealthy Americans for 2 weeks takes it's toll, and I try to remind myself the fraction of the world population that sees this place is indeed lucky, if very hardworking and good at saving.
El Calafate and El Chalten for New Years, then onto the Torres trek by January 3rd.
Oh Terra Firma, mucho bueno!!
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