Tolhuin

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This small town in the heart of Tierra del Fuego, on the eastern shore of Lago Fagnano, became the first place where i felt not just like passing through, since leaving Buenos Aires. Tolhuin tries hard to attract more visitors, but most still don't get any further than it's more than decent bakery - doubling as a busstop for those heading to or from Ushuaia. A man called Ricardo told me it's growing uncontrollably, but so far everything seems very quiet: if you want to get away from the crowds of Ushuaia, this is a fine place.
After getting some groceries (i mistook balsamico vinegar for olive oil, and some kind of culinary soda powder for salt), i walked to Camping Hain. This is one nice campground, with a lot of fresh firewood, and barbeque places a plenty. Every following night in Tolhuin would be spent by a crackling woodfire. From my tent, i could watch the lake and it's surrounding mountains and very inviting woods.
In the shower, i met Cesar from Buenos Aires, who introduced me to his compadre Gaston. They would soon become the first persons in Argentina that i could call boludo. We bonded over wine, fire and cigarillos negros, and raved on about the beauty of the Argentine nature. The following day, we went fishing without catching anything, and had an asado (a severe sin for a vegetarian, but i figured a locally raised sheep, roaming the land and eating the grass probably did a lot less harm than oversubsidised european beef). A lot of shared admiration fo this place was felt, the three of us adore the wonders of the land, and agreed that travelling is the most beautiful thing in life. Que hermoso!
The next morning, i climbed nearby mountain Newhuepen, pleasantly wrestling myself up through dense lenga forest and trying to avoid swamps created by beaver dams. There's no paths, but its easy to find your way up. The top was covered with soft moss, and i could walk along the mountain range, taking in the gorgious views over the lake and the snow covered peaks. I was overwhelmed by the size of it all, and felt like a giant towering over all that space. I got convinced that trekking the mountains of Tierra del Fuego would be a nice training for heavier walks. A very silly thought, which i discovered three days later, somewhere behind Ushuaia.

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