Ushuaia and the end of the road ...

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With a nice symmetry to our boat trip to see glaciers the day before we left Anchorage we take another one to see the Perito Moreno Glacier and friends for the day, from El Calafate. Then we are off through rolling hills and forests on tarmac to our final section of Ruta 40 gravel. Back to the tundra for 60 miles, which, while not the last gravel we will ride, is the last very tough section and so is solely focussed on “don't fall off!” We cross the border at a tiny outpost where we arrive just after two coaches and so are there for some time as they process the 50+ people on each. Bloody Tourists!! We manage to pass the buses on the 20 miles between the Chile and Argentinian borders. Over the border is Torres Del Paine National Park and we are staying just outside in a lovely Hacienda. Real fire in the lounge lovely friendly staff and another evening spent drinking and playing cards as Condors swoop from the hills opposite. In the evening they light the Parrillia and cook three Lambs, for the group. Patagonia is famed for its Lamb but this was by far the best we have had- almost as good as Welsh!

During the evening the owner arrives in his pick up with two young lambs that a Puma has killed. They might be the national animal but they are not popular with the farmers. We are here for two nights so we can spend a day riding in Torres Del Paine. More beautiful snow capped mountains, rolling hills, lakes and dirt tracks. There are herds of Guanicoe, Rhea and small Foxes. Even after 17 weeks travelling we are not allowed to become jaded when at the side of the road a Guanicoe gives birth. It takes ten minutes and mum spends most of this still grazing. Within 15 minutes the new born is walking, somewhat unsteadily but walking all the same.

Now we come to the first end of the trip, for today we are to cross the Straits of Magellan. This means we are at the end of the continual land mass of the continental Americas We ride past abandoned estancias on the coast and rusting ships on the way to the ferry to Tierre Del Fuego, Land of Fire. The ferry runs about every 30 minutes simply on a when it arrives it loads up and goes back timetable. The currents are so strong that the boat heads 25 degrees up channel from the opposite port for the 20 minute crossing. All the way across the boat is accompanied by black and white Dolphins (Commerson's Dolphins apparently) crossing under and in front of the ferry. At each end the boat simply rams the ramp and the captain keeps the boat driving into the concrete ramp while cars, trucks and bikes load and unload with the tail of the boat drifting left and right in the current. Nothing as time consuming as tying up.

Once on Tierra Del Fuego it is a short ride to Cerro Sombrero for an overnight stop. The next morning we are back on unmade roads and cross the moor like terrain of the north of the island to another border crossing. The island is divided between Chile and Argentina. We ride on and mountains rise in the distance. The south of the island returns to mountains, forests and lakes. We stay on the north side of Lake Fagnano just 65 miles away from Ushuaia and 80 miles from Lapataia the park where Ruta 3 ends. This is the most southerly road in the world. The end of the road - literally. We ride away in the morning in convoy and make our way gently over Paso Garibaldi and down into Ushuaia, the most southerly city in the world. Through the city (more of a big town) and onto the Lapataia national park and to the end of the road after a final 20 miles of dirt and mud track in the park. We park up and then there are lots of hugs, a few tears and a glass of Champagne. This is the first Trans Am where every-one who left Anchorage has arrived in Ushuaia. One bike was sent home in Panama and the rider is now pillion with her husband. One bike is crashed and unrepairable in the van and the rider is now riding Julia's bike (an act of incredible generosity) and she is pillion with Kevin. The bike in the van has been stripped of parts to get another back on the road, but we are all here and all on bikes, not a broken bone among us.

After an hour or so at the sign, beating off curious coach loads from their cruise ships and the annoyed French group who can't believe that the sign is not there just for them, after their long coach journey of 20 minutes from Ushuaia, we turn and head north. We haven't really done this for 5 months. Tonight is a big celebration group meal at the best steak house in town. Some speeches, more emotion and plenty to drink before on to the almost obligatory Irish bar (No Guinness obviously) and bed at some point.

We have two days in Ushuaia to reflect and enjoy Antarctica. The first day we go off to a Penguin colony via a minibus and small rib boat. There are hundreds of them. They are great and we get within feet of them as long as we stay on our side of the drift wood marked walkway. Unexpectedly they bray like donkeys so the couples can find each other as one parent comes back from feeding at the beach. The second day is Mac's 60th birthday and a bit of a lunchtime party follows. The rest of the day is spent quietly to get fresh for the 3047km north to Buenos Aires and the real end of the journey. More will follow.....

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Photos

Torres Del Paine
Little red bushes and big white mountains

Not for the squeamish
Theres one and a bit Guanicoe in this picture if you look carefully

15 minutes later...
standing and almost walking

Tierra Del Fuego
Its a bit windy here sometimes...

Fin del Mundo
The end of the world..

Comments

[Jerry Kennery]

Airport Pick-Up
Yes, of course we'll be at the airport for you. As the time draws closer you can give us your flight information, as they like to change things at the last minute, don't they? Talk to you soon! Original Message from [e-mail] Sent at 12:37 PM (GMT-05:00) to [e-mail] date Sun, Nov 29, 2009 at 12:37 PM subject Fwd: TravelBlog PM: Congratulations to All! Hi Guys, Yes it has been great so far and we still have a week of riding to Buenos Aires to go. We're really looking forward to seeing you all. Just wanted to check all is still OK with you are still happy to collect us from the Airport? Thanks R and K