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Published: December 9th 2011
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Before setting off on my trip to South America, and on the many 20 hour plus bus journeys during my trip, I had read a lot about the vast region of Patagonia which straddles the Argentine and Chilean border at the southern extremity of the continent. I was fascinated by its natural beauty but also its history and, in particular, the steady stream of migrants who populated the region over the last 200 years. Patagonia can claim descendants from Spain, Italy, Germany, Scotland and Wales among others. Butch Cassidy is said to have escaped there and settled after his exploits in the USA and even some leading Nazis are reported to have fled there after the second world war, attracted by the region's inaccesabilty. Patagonia was certainly high on my South America "to do list" and I had planned my trip for the first of my remaining two weeks on the continent.
I had booked a flight to El Calafate, one of the southermost towns on the Argentinian mainland and gateway to the National Glacier Park. I had booked a direct flight from Buenos Aires to El Calafate but was informed two days prior to departure that the flight was
Ushuaia
From the air. being re-routed via Ushuaia, the capital of the Tierra del Fuego archipelago and the most southerly city in the world. Ushuaia itself was also the departure point for Rupert Attlee and friends on their 'Trail to Titicaca' (see blog "Lake Titicaca & Bolivia") and they had described a spectacular mountain backdrop to this most remote of cities. Intrigued by what they had to say about about the region, the opportunity to fly over the unique landscape of Tierra del Fuego (Land of Fire) and the spectacular descent to land in Ushuaia was a great bonus and I certainly wasn't complaining about the alterations to my flight!
El Calafate itself is a nice little tourist town with a distinctly alpine feel to it. The surrounding area hosts a wealth of trekking, adventure activities and skiing although, due to my time constraints (I had only two weeks to travel the 5,386km overland to Rio for my homeward flight!) I had to be selective. I opted for a trek across the Perito Moreno Glacier, a 30km long glacier which spans an area roughly the size of Buenos Aires and is one of the few glaciers in the world which is still advancing.
Ushuaia
Argentine Flag at Ushuaia airport The sight of the colossal "tongue" of ice was mind-boggling. Taking my first steps on this glacier, in one of the most southerly mainland locations in the world (or as the Argentines put it, "el culo del mundo!) was a surreal experience. Almost as surreal, in fact, as bumping into a fella' fae Paisley while on the glacier and talking about St Columba's School in Kilmacolm and the three common friends we shared from Largs...there's no escape! The scenery was breathtaking with the vast white sheet of ice interspersed with brilliant blue pools of water and crevices - some of which were up to 150 metres deep though, thankfully, only a few centimetres wide! The sound of huge chunks of ice breaking off and crashing into the lake below was thrilling as well.
From El Calafate, a five hour bus ride took me even further south across the barren Patagonian plains to Rio Gallegos for a connecting bus back north to the town of Trelew in northern Patagonia. Trelew, and neighbouring Gaiman, are the centres of Patagonia's Welsh population. Boatloads of Welsh arrived during the second half of the 19th century in an attempt to preserve the Welsh language
and culture in the midst of the English language being imposed upon Welsh schools at the time. The Welsh cultural influence, language and even facial features are still very much in evidence among the locals. After trawling through the museums of Trelew, I spent the next day in Gaiman, walking around the town in the morning and spending most of the afternoon in one of the Welsh tearooms...gorging on the tasty cakes on offer! I had a lengthy chat with one of the waitresses who filled me in on the history of the town and the origins of most of the residents! When I could finally lift myself off my chair, I headed north towards Puerto Madryn and Peninsula Valdes.
The penisula is a world reknowned spot for nature lovers and, in particular, whale watching. I took a boat tour on what was a beautifully calm day on the east coast of Argentina and we were assured by our guides that conditions wee perfect for whale watching. The genuine excitement on their faces certainly gave weight to their claims. In truth I would have delighted to see just one whale at close quarters although I could never have imagined
the spectacle that awaited us. As we sailed out to deeper waters we were soon surrounded by up to 20 Southern Right Whales as this was prime season for the mothers teaching their young to dive before heading for Antartica for the summer months. Being privvy to such a beautiful moment in nature with these gentle giants, at such close quarters, was exhilerating. Despite their size (the baby itself would have have weighed close to a tonne!) their movement through the water was graceful and the sounds of the jets of water, spraying high into the air as they exhaled, was strangely soothing. As if this spectacle wasn't magnificent enough, we were soon joined by scores of sea-lions bobbing up and down in the water and dolphins cutting through the waves, playfully toying with our boat. The scene will live long in my memory!
It was then back to dry land for a tour of the peninsula where we saw an array of animals many of which are peculiar to Peninsula Valdes. The highlight was watching a pod of Killer Whales swimming menacingly down the channel headed towards a colony of unsuspecting seals which were lazing on the shore.
El Calafate
The world's glaciers The whales swam within inches of the seals, in very shallow water, but apparently making a kill ashore takes years of experience and no blood was shed. Perhaps this was just a practice, and the whales certainly have time on there hands as, apparently, they can live up to 90 years of age! So off they swam in search of an easier kill.
After a fascinating day on the peninsula it was back to Puerto Madryn for a night bus back to Buenos Aires for an overnight stop before another 20 hour bus journey to the northern tip of Argentina and the Iguazu Falls...a Modern Wonder of the Natural World straddling the Argentina / Brazil border. Tune in next time!
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