My bus arrives in Tupiza, Bolivia at 3:15am, possibly the worst time to arrive in a new town as it is neither day nor night, almost too late to seek a bed and definitely too early to wait it out in a cafe. It completely defeats the purpose of taking a night bus. Reluctantly (I thought briefly about hanging out on the curb until something opened up) I ring the bell of the nearest hostel. The scratchy voice of a man who had obviously been sleeping addresses me in Spanish over the intercom. After a confusing exchange, he comes out and opens the locked gate for me, his shoes only pulled on half way, much like his attitude. Tupiza is a small, dusty little town which would have reminded me of something out of the Wild
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