Blogs from Río Negro, Argentina, South America - page 8


El Chalten to Bariloche....the two little cities are just 1,384km away...these are the last four days of our little Patagonia trip...driving a lot...waiting for a plane...and doing some fun things in between. We left mid-morning El Chalten for the road north. First, 120km of beautiful paved road, than a good 150km of nightmare gravels...I thought, well, been raining the last few days, there is only one possible way, so I'de better allowed myself some serious extra time. A week ago we just got stuck in a huge puddle just a kilometer north of Tres Lagos. Interesting point, since we got stuck, they have repaired that part of the track...aka Ruta 40. I was pretty suprised that the place was flat, beautiful...and yes, fully dry. But few hundred meters later, the fun started. I was going to ... read more
Estancia La Angostura

South America » Argentina » Río Negro » El Bolsón December 22nd 2012

Wie geplant sind wir also zur gekuerzten Nahuel Huapi Traverse aufgebrochen. Irgendwie haben wir die erste Tagesetappe unabsichtlich etwas verlaengert, weil wir den Anfang des Wegs nicht so richtig gefunden haben. Also haben wir einfach einen Weg genommen, der in die gewuenschte Richtung ging, in der Hoffnung, dass es dann passt. Dabei haben wir gekonnt immer wieder einen Mountainbike-Trail erwischt und sind froehlich in irren Schlanglinien durch's Unterholz gestreift. Nach 3 Stunden sind wir dann das erste Mal erfolgreich auf den richtigen Weg getroffen :-/ Aber egal, die Berglandschaft mit dem grossen Lago Gutierrez war wunderschoen. Je hoeher wir kamen, je kaelter wurde es, und ab ca 1.500 m schneite es. Wir waren froh, als wir das winzige Refugio Frey erreicht hatten, das von 2 jungen Kerlen im Klettererformat betrieben wird. Der Schneefall wurde dichter, auf ... read more
Lago Gutierrez
Papa Noel?
Gutes Wetter zum Aufstieg

Leaving the estancia we headed across the border into Chile and onto the city of Santiago. It rained in Santiago, a lot, unexpectedly – earlier in the month we’d been told by the locals in Salta that it’d be hot, very hot, uncomfortably hot - so much so that the rain made the front page of the local newspaper…..all the rain put a dampener on the proceedings a little - and yes I know being British means I should be used to it but still - after a brief wander around the city it was out for dinner and lots of staying warm and dry in the shopping malls. I’m sure there’s lots to see and do in Santiago that I missed, but I’ll just have to come back another time when it’s slightly less wet. ... read more
Shots in Santiago
Christmas in Santiago
Salto Del Laja

"Das pfeift hier aber ordentlich kalt!" Das waren Jens erste Worte, als er in Bariloche aus dem Flughafengebaeude getreten ist. Und in der Tat praesentiert sich das Wetter wie erwartet: kalt, windig und unberechenbar. Unser Plan war, als erstes die Nahuel Huapi Traverse, eine 5-taegige Trekking-Wanderung durch die Berge mit Huettenuebernachtung zu machen. Beim Einholen weiterer Infos bei der Parkverwaltung haben wir dann erfahren, dass die naechsten 5 Tage sehr schlecht werden: beginnend mit sehr viel Regen, dann wahlweise Regen und Schnee und noch einmal heftiger Regen, Schneefallgrenze bei 1.600 m. Ausserdem sollte man die Ueberschreitung des Passes wegen der Schneeverhaeltnisse besser sein lassen. Also haben wir umgeplant: einen Tag eine kleine harmlose Tour, dann die urspruengliche Tour auf 3 Tage gekuerzt und ohne Pass, und dann weiter nach Chile. Daher haben wir uns erst mal ... read more
Mamuschka - eine Suende wert
Faultieralarm in Bariloche

South America » Argentina » Río Negro December 8th 2012

Hello all! GOOD GRACIOUS ME- What a crazy couple of days. Last Saturday was my final day in Buenos Aires. On Friday Federico and I left the farm to head to Santa Teresita (the town in which Federico has his apartment) so that we could shower, have a nice dinner, and spend all of Saturday on the beach before I had to leave. It was a perfect day. On Saturday morning we had breakfast on a beautiful terrace overlooking the ocean and then spent the day lounging in the sun and recounting all our fond memories from this past month. After deciding that we had baked our skin for long enough, we went back to the apartment to sit on the balcony, drink matte, talk about life and future dreams, all the while watching the dusk ... read more

Are we in Slovenia, Swiss Alps or Lake Tahoe? I am hearing more German being spoken and there are chocolate shops on every other block. The homes are made of logs or have split timber siding. However, lots of Spanish is being spoken and there are plenty of parillas to get your carne fix. Must be Bariloche! The ride here from Mendoza was overnight, 17 hours and tiring. Most of it was high altiplano and desolate. Then, miracously in the last 50 miles, the lakes and snow capped mountains appeared. This is the beginning of the Patagonia region. We are staying in a little hotel about a 10 minute walk to the civic center. The hotel sits right on the lake with a view of the snow capped mountains on the other side of the lake. ... read more
Civic Center

A day late we arrived in to Bariloche. A whole day! "Seems an awful long time for a bus to run behind schedule?" I here you exclaim with utter astonishment. Well, I have to confess that we attempted to "cheat" a bit here by getting an internal flight from El Calafate to Bariloche. Before you cry foul or begin to lose your faith in my commitment to this backpacking malarky let me try to explain myself. We wanted to take Route 40 north, however, this road is partly ripio and thus liable to destruction at the merciless hands of the winter weather gods. No buses run this route for a few weeks yet while repairs are made. The alternative was a 28 hour bus ride back along the same road we had come. I'm all for ... read more
In case the trees get cold?

Fiona was overly excited today as we were taking our first trip on an overnight bus. There wasn't any real reason for her excitement but she was like a kid in a Bariloche chocolate store. We had bought the tickets a couple of days ago down at the bus terminal so we knew exactly where we were going. We also knew exactly which seats we were in, the front row on the upper deck. We had seats known as cama, which meant they reclined but not flat. Unfortunately there were no flat seats on this route. We left the apartment mid afternoon and the landlady was pleasantly surprised at how clean we had left it. She hadn't realised that neat freak Toby was staying! Toby and Harriet dropped Fiona at the bus stop with the bags ... read more
Just out of Bariloche
Rugged scenery
The view from up top

Living in Melbourne you don't get to see too many glaciers. Fiona and Toby had been to Franz Joseph in New Zealand, but Harriet didn't even know what a glacier was. There are 2 glaciers right next to each other a couple of hours drive from Bariloche and so that was our plan for today. The road to the glaciers is one way. In the morning you can go in until 2pm and at 4pm the road direction changes so that you can leave. We were apprehensive about being at the glacier for a fixed amount of time, unsure if we would find enough to do until we could leave, but it turned out the timing was perfect. We left Bariloche quite early and drove past the southern parts of town. We had thought the town ... read more
Glassy lake
Los Cesares falls
Argentinian Grasses

On the circuito chico yesterday we passed a sign to the colonial suiza. This is a small village that was established by swiss immigrants. We didn't stop at it yesterday because we wanted to visit on a Sunday. On a Sunday and on a Wednesday there is a market and food for sale that is cooked underground. This sounded very similar to a hangi in New Zealand and we were curious to see more. Harriet was desperate for another long sleep in and so we left her in bed and went to mass at the cathedral. It was obviously all in Spanish, but there was a lovely atmosphere. We were pleased to see that there were lots of people attending and that they weren't all from the older generation. The cathedral itself was very beautiful and ... read more
Curanto cooking
Chocolate cake and dulce de leche
Some of the food stalls

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