Don't Cry for me, (I've Been to) Argentina

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Friends and Family (those of you still reading),

I know I have been home for five days, but I put off writing this final entry because it seemed to be the end to a wonderful trip. If I did not have such a good family, fine friends, and good job back here I am not sure I would have left Argentina. It is a big land, with a big heart and often a healthy laugh. I will miss it and hope to return.

But a few final notes are in order.

First, what is the deal with the dogs? They are everywhere, middle of the sidewalk sleeping in the sun on a busy downtown street; following us down a ten mile mountain trail; heck, one met us when we got of a bus in Bariloche and was our escort across two busy streets and led us to our hostel--no kidding! Everywhere you turned there was a stray dog; most very subdued and quiet, waiting for the next hand out.

Now the scenery was something that we could not capture in photos. If you have been out west to Montana, maybe in the southwest in reservation lands...well, put that on steroids. Everything is big, no massive. But so often empty. We flew from Buenos Aires to Bariloche and it took 2.5 hours on a jet. During that time we did not pass over any towns or cities until we reached the mountains. Every view takes your breath away, at least in Patagonia where we were.

I still do not understand the currency. The 'official' exchange rate is around 5.6 pesos to the US Dollar. However, if you have $100 bills, many places are willing to trade them for a rate of between 9.2 and 9.5 pesos. And in the back of the t-shirt shop on the main street in Bariloche, the one with the manikin outside, there is a guy that will give you the good rate for $50s as well. The inflation rate is brutal, so credit card purchases often come with a 20% markup. Fortunately, John knew someone there and was advised to bring our travel money in cash and not use credit cards...so we paid for everything, hotels, guides, rental car, in cash. Fine, but what do you do with $10,000 pesos in 100 and 50 denominations?

This exchange rate also made the visit very affordable. No matter how good the meal was, and we had some great ones, the bill was never more than $400 pesos, always including the wine and tip....as in under $50 bucks and usually more around $35.

Now, speaking of food, it was amazing if you like meat! We had pieces of beef (bief) that melted in your mouth, and we never used a steak knife. No, the beef here you can cut with a butter knife. (Our motto was "beef, its what's for breakfast, lunch, and dinner!). But how can a country with such great beef have such, shall we say, not so inspiring bread? Usually it was white flour in the form of long buns, imagine bad bread in a pizza restaurant. Oh well, just skip the bread and head to the meat.

Or the wine! Wow, I am a convert to Malbec from Mendoza! And not only was it great, it was cheap. The best bottle in some establishments was 500 pesos....yep, $50US. But usually we had a bottle that outshined most American reds for under $15US. I brought one back...I am hording it.

Finally, a word about the Argentine people. Everywhere we went we found them to be welcoming and helpful. Any attempt we made at Spanish they encouraged and helped us with. Need advice or directions, just ask. Want to get in on their story telling, just listen. We had Argentines come up to our car to tell us jokes; a group of hikers (men age 64-81 who hiked up to Rufugio Jakob where John and I stayed for a couple of days) joined us for an evening of wine, cards, and singing; and people just wanting us to enjoy their beautiful country. We were often asked what we thought of Argentina, and when we sang its praises, well, were like old friends. Certainly it is a nation with struggles--the dictatorships and the disappeared young men of years ago, the inflation and official corruption (an Argentine joke goes this way--two politicians, an Argentine and a US are visiting. When in the US the Arg. asks how the US pol got his beautiful house....'see that bridge', he says, and with a wink he conveys that a bribe was paid. When in Arg., the US pol asks how the Arg. pol got his beautiful house...'see that bridge,' says the Arg. 'What bridge?' say the US pol. "wink" goes the Arg......), and poverty is a major issue in the capital and among indigenous peoples. But still they smile, they laugh, they invite us to share and they are never, ever, in a hurry. It was a sincere pleasure to slow down among them.

I hope I return.

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Photos

Dog Nap Time
Why not nap right in front of half a pig roasting on a spit

Impossible
To capture what you could see in a camera lens.

Cash
This stuff is not all going in your wallet.

BEEF
When you order a beef filet, be ready for there to be two on your plate!

Cut it, cook it
This guy gets your order, goes behind the counter, cuts the meet and then grills it over the open fire behind him.

Gaucho
One of the many faces of Argentina.