Not so heavenly at Cerro Catedral


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Published: September 19th 2012
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As a family with children whose ages are wide spread, the sports we have enjoyed the most are those which are individual but can be done together. This includes scuba diving and also skiing. We were really looking forward to skiing in Argentina and had really only come to Bariloche for the snow. We were expecting spring conditions, but Barliloche has a reputation for lots of snow and lots of snow for a long time. This was to be our second ski trip this year as we skied in Vermont, USA at the start of the year. Unfortunately when we were in Vermont they had the worst season for many years and there was practically no snow. We felt like history was repeating itself as there was hardly any snow in Bariloche and we were told it was the worst season in many years. Perhaps we are jinxed?

Claire the landlady had told us to get up the mountain early as the snow was softened by the crowds and the sunshine later in the day. We got up too early though as the lifts didn't start running until 9.30am. We rented skis and then went to get our passes. One
Harriet on the top of a cathedral againHarriet on the top of a cathedral againHarriet on the top of a cathedral again

First it was Il duomo in Milan and now Cerro Catedral
little idiosyncrasy of paying for things in Argentina is that you have to show ID if you use a credit card. Toby had left his ID at the rental store as a guarantee when we took the skis and Fiona had to run over, somehow explain to the staff what we needed and that we would bring it back, in order for us to get lift passes. We eventually got in the gondola up the mountain mid morning. The gondola trip showed quite how little snow there was. Usually the snowline is in the ski village but the snow didn't start until about half way up. We took a chairlift to the top of the mountain and were blown away by the views. Cerro Catedral ski field is renowned for its views and it's reputation wasn't exaggerated. The views were amazing over the lake and over the town of Bariloche.

It was a real shame that the skiing didn't match the view. The runs were already softening and it was really hot. The temperature gauge at one of the lifts was 14degrees. We had on thermals and jackets and were dripping wet. We had to put in a huge amount of effort as the skiing was hard due to the conditions but we had fun all the same. Then we decided to go over to another part of the mountain and although it looked downhill the track we took was actually uphill. By the time we got to a lift we were exhausted, hot and tired. We skied down to a lift that would take us all the way to the top and as it was lower the snow was almost water. It wasn't fun at all. When we eventually got to the top we loved the run down but there was no way Harriet and Fiona wanted to go back down to the lift. We took another back towards the gondola and called it quits for the day. On the way back down to the town we spotted our first pair of condors. They are huge and very majestic.

Fiona was in agony by the time we got home. Her cold had turned into full blown sinusitis and was giving her toothache. Sinus toothache is excruciating and there is nothing you can do but take antibiotics, decongestants and painkillers and then wait till it clears. Toby decided to be sympathetic and went to the pharmacy for stronger painkillers whilst she had a sleep. Harriet had a rest too, not because she was sick but because she is a teenager and needs more sleep.

We thought we would try something different for dinner and went to a Mexican restaurant. It wasn't great and seemed very expensive. To cheer ourselves up, we walked into town and found a chocolate shop. We shared a delicious chocolate fondue and warmed up for the cold evening, we went back to the apartment.


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