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Published: March 11th 2010
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Bariloche
View of the city, and partial view of lake Been blessed to experience the natural beauty of the areas around Bariloche and El Bolson Argentina. Its an outdoor wonderland, of course when the weather agrees. Crossed the border from Orsurno, Chile to Bariloche, a great 5 hour ride through semitropical forests filled with bamboo, pass pristine lakes, mountain peaks and volcanoes. The best scenery yet while crossing the Andes. I feel as though I am in the middle of a movie sometimes with the amazing experiences and scenery through my travels. Theres no substitute for independant travel, whether you are with groups with unlimited budget, or living week to week working on farms and hostels, hitchhiking from location to location earning money as you go. The places and the people are all so diverse, but at the same time a sence that in the end we are all similiar, living on a planet that is sometimes taken for granted. I often wonder what a place would have been like 50 or even a 100 years ago, before mass globalization, and extraction of natural resources. Patagonia is a place that is trying to balance the natural ecosystems, with tourism and the need for resources in rapidly devloping nations. Bless it
Bariloche
view lake Bariloche, Argentina is wonderfully situated on the shores of Nahuel Huapi, a major tourist destination with a village mountain resort feel to it. With Outdoor shops, internet cafes, restuarants for everyone, and chocolate shops galore the masses come year around to enjoy the city and the surrounding area. As english is spoken as much as spanish on the streets and stores. Summer time is for day hikes, trekking, mountain biking, boating and more. When winter comes Bariloche turns into a premier ski resort, I believe Argentinas largest with the most slopes. My time in the city was hampered slightly with 3 days of rain. However it didn´t slow me much as I went for the 20 km roundtrip trek from the Cathedral ski resort area. One of the best hikes i´ve done through meadows along a lake, with views of the city in the distance. Then through wooded area past creeks with a canopy of green over head. Finally up steep boulders to reach a refugio used mostly by climbers and multi-day trekkers. At the top there is expansive views of the surrounding mountains. I experienced small snow flakes as I started to descend which quickly turned to constant
rain. Overall great experience. Bariloche has several backpacker hostels which I had trouble finding a bed my first night in the city. I found myself wandering the city past midnight with a canadien, french and australian looking for accomadation no hostels or camping in the city center available. Eventually finding a small hotel waking the owners up for a room a bit more then i´m used to paying. The following night found hostel 1004 on the 10th floor of a building in downtown with spectacular views of the lake and area. A very homey warm feeling to the hostel where I spent 2 nights before heading 2 hours south along route 40 to El Bolson.
The Bolson was a very pleasant change of pace along my trip, that attracts artesians from all over Argentina seeking an alternative lifestyle. Set in a beautiful valley surrounded by mountains and a nice river going through town. Many organic farms, and alternative building workshops in the surrounding area. Seeing tourism which sustains the 4 times a week artesian fair around the plaza, it is a far cry from the gringo mecca of Bariloche few hours up the road. Hippies, artist, farmers, musicians all
El Bolson
swimming hole, chilly water, sunny day show up often staying longer then expected in one of the many campgrounds scattered around town. With mild weather I was able to explore a few of the many trails on day hikes although a complete infustructure of refugios and camping is set up in the mountains. Highlights of the area were relaxing by waterfalls after tough hikes, swimming in turquise clear secluded waters, mountain biking, floating down the river on a tube and hiking above the town to a forest with wood carvings. My 9 days in the Patagonia campround flew by. The Artesian hippie fair was a unique place filled with stands of all handcrafted objects by the locals. Everything from windchimes, art work, fly´s for fishing, rock carvings, cooking utensils, carved mates, clothing... to homemade cheeses, mermalades, chocolates, artesian beers and much much more. Well over 100 stands in all. I took advantage of the cheap stands of tasty vegetarian food options. Empanadas, sandwiches with local veggies, pizza, chocolates, quiche, local icecreams. Paradise! Why more cities don´t have plazas with local markets with fresh food, plants, and artesian crafts is beyond me. Arcata, CA is a pleasant exeption where at some point I will return to. It
El Bolson
View outside tent was difficult to leave El Bolson with the small town feel, outdoor options, happy people and great outdoor market every few days. I finally departed after going to one night of the Hops festival which had 4 of the local artesian brewery´s, food stands, and a large stage displaying bands, tango performances and beauty contests. Attracting thousands of people going Argentina style late into the night. I finally left 3am ish while still in its prime, heading for the small nightlife in town which took me to morning, enjoying a dj and a packed bar before I got on my 25 hour bus ride to El Calafate at 9am. El Calafate is known for the Perito Moreno glacier and a big step closer to Tierra del Fuego. Which is what I am currently experiencing. Enjoy life! not at the expence of others or the Earth.
Paz Jeff
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Bruno Gola
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Woohoo!
Hey Jeff! Nice to read news from you! Take care, Bruno (from São Paulo =D)