Heaven and Hell Paradise: autumn trees turning from glorious gold to rich red, lovely people in a campground on an island in the rushing Rio Chimehuin, a reading porch overlooking the river, the best sunset I've ever seen and fine walks with my own sweet dog. My planned days stretched to a couple of weeks; why leave when life is good? Hell: finding a place. I'd come from upscale San Martin de los Andes, an hour away, and knew only that the recommended hostel was closed for the season. I set out from the bus terminal, slowly bumping my too-heavy, barely-rolling bag over dirt roads to an overpriced campground, then to a claustrophobic hostel, and back to the campground. After a sweaty hour and a half, I was not in a pleasant mood. However, as I
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