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South America » Argentina » Jujuy » Quebrada de Humahuaca
January 23rd 2009
Published: January 25th 2009
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We left the heat of Cordoba on Friday night without a hitch along with our bikes after a weeks separation, and arrived in Salta in the cool early morning. Salta was lush and green and old buildings abound. We decided to bus to San Salvador de Jujuy that arvo to begin our ride to avoid the main busy road. After waiting over an hour at the bus depot getting more and more anxious, we realised once again we´d been caught out by the confusing time zone changes here in Argentina. Lucky it wasn´t the other way round!

Tropical Jujuy was dark by the time we reached our campsite. We are obviously not used to the much shorter days up this way, and Phil had to replace some broken spokes by the light of a head torch It took a bit to figure the cattle stops in the road in the city were not for cattle at all but to let the giant rain escape. We got to meet this giant rain the very next morning when, as we were about to depart our campsite, the sky opened. After waiting a while in the toilet block, we convinced ourselves it was easing and bravely took off to begin our climb out of the tropical valley. We were quickly drenched and riding through clouds. We had had reservations about riding north or Cordoba because of the intense heat, but gradually we became the coldest we had been this trip. We got our white hands on a dozen empanadas and 1L of hot water, dug out all our warm clothes buried in our panniers, and slowly started to thaw. Luckily it only lasted the morning and as the sky cleared we realised we were in different country, land of cacti, adobe huts and red dirt.

I talked Phil into taking the 4km detour into Purmamarca and we were blown away by what we found. A lively little town with a humming square filled with markets but best of all the crazy hills of seven colours that created an impressive backdrop. We quickly forgot the gloom of the morning and happily headed to Maimara for the night. We love having the opportunity to stop in the little towns that the tour buses pass by. Here we got to camp in the backyard of a elderly couple whose grandkids made great company. Domestic tourism is big here but we have seen very few foreigners, let alone other cyclists. The BOB isn´t ideal for travelling these smooth, ever climbing roads but it sure makes a good conversation starter in these parts, especially with the local boys who quickly gather when we stop.

After spending our final night in Argentina enjoying a spectacular electric storm from the comfort of our small flimsy tent on the side of the road, we awoke to a calm cold clear morning and waited for the sun to thaw the ice from our panniers. We jumped on our treadlies and continued the relentless ascent of the previous days. Before long we crested the Cuesta de Azul Pampa at 3780m above sea level. With the sun shining we dropped a little to the Puña, the high plains. As you´d expect the road here is smooth, straight and plain. We were feeling good and with a gentle breeze on our back we decided to push on to the border, excited to see Bolivia. We ended up doing our longest day yet, 113km all at around the altitude of the summit of Mt Cook, surprised not to be feeling the affects of our height but then again we did take our time up the UN approved acclimatisation route!

Although the Jujuy province was a superb transition from Argentina to Bolivia it was still rather overwhelming getting to the chaotic border, exhausted and hungry. The quiet empty streets of La Quiaca contrasted greatly with colourful bustling border town of Villazon just across the river. Gutted that tickets had sold for the next day´s train and not keen to wait another three, we cautiously jumped on a bus to Uyuni the very next morn, our bikes strapped precariously to the top.

Computers sure are slow here, when we find a machine with USB2.0 we'll upload some more photos, so watch this space.



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26th January 2009

Border crossing into Bolivia
You both write so well and expressively. I find it just possible to start imagining the sights and sounds you are experiencing. Wow. I guess the images are supported by so many magazine pictures and TV docos but how wonderful. Good luck with the final leg. I hope La Paz is all you are wishing for. Love, Mum / Colleen X X

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