A tale of 2 BA´s - The rich and the very poor.


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South America » Argentina » Buenos Aires
February 15th 2006
Published: May 5th 2006
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Buenos Aires - Peurto MaderoBuenos Aires - Peurto MaderoBuenos Aires - Peurto Madero

The bridge from Spain - reassembled for BA.
The 8th largest country in the world, and a third of it´s population live in BA. This city is big, noisy and dirty. But it also has something about it that's...addictive and special.

It's a place that makes me smile and that makes me swallow back my tears.

You can see real generosity in the people here and you can almost feel the hard times people have lived through. There are so many stark reminders of poverty and shabbyness around the city which, all the trendy restaurants and high fashion, will never be able to hide. You really will see barefooted children walking through the streets, too poor to do anything else. You really will see all number of people (crippled, blind, the very young, and families) begging on the subte and you really will see shanty towns, that are accepted and established.

But what has affected me most is one blind woman. She stands or sometimes sits, in Florida (busy, pedestrian street). She has a sign hanging round her neck - "Necessito su ayuda" (I need your help) and holds one hand out. She is there everyday. She doesn't move. Her fingers clasped tightly, cupped, awaiting coins.
Buenos AiresBuenos AiresBuenos Aires

Typical tree-lined street in Palermo


Sorry, but it can all be a touch depressing sometimes.

I now live in Chacarita, one of the not so swanky areas of BA. Instead of hearing "Que Linda" (how beautiful) when people ask me where I live (which happened when I was in Palermo), they now say "Oh...esta feo?" (it is ugly?). Still, the apartment is cool with a communal garden. I have also made friends with someone in the neighbourhood. I don't know where her house is but she regularly comes round to play and now sleeps the night. She is my new best friend. I recently rewarded her with her own food and saucer of milk.

Of course, I've tried out the Tango. I went to one Milonga (open air Tango dance off) and my partner was not my equal in any capacity: talent, height or age! (See pic) I also took one official Tango lesson - and my partner was a lesbian who didn't want to let me go. But I have seen and can recommend the most fantastic dance performances at the cultural centres. I have fallen in love with almost any version of "Besame" and, once again, I´m addicted to coffee.
Buenos Aires - La BocaBuenos Aires - La BocaBuenos Aires - La Boca

How to attract tourists - paint your house with lots of colours. No, it was originally done to make the poor neighbourhood more cheery.


BA is a highly politicised city and you regularly see people protesting. I have been to one major demonstration - the 30yr anniversary of the day the army took over. It was, shall I say, typically South American with fireworks going off, banners everywhere and not one sign of a policeman, anywhere.

But the regular strikes and picketing become such a normal occurance that they rather lose their effect. People just ignore them.

Portaneans, (people from BA) are also quite snobby and they have no real interest when I talk about my travels or experiences in the rest of South America. No, no, they prefer to associate themselves with Europe. Loads go to Spain or Italy every year on holiday and they constantly point out English or French architecture to me, or the British, Italian influences in their city. They love to tell me about their family tie to Europe or what they thought of the UK when they went.

The wine, of course, is brilliant and it has become a nice excuse to have a glass whenever I eat out. Which is pretty much everyday. But the pace of drinking here is so much slower.
Buenos Aires - La BocaBuenos Aires - La BocaBuenos Aires - La Boca

It really is a colourful place
I feel quite gluttenous glugging back my Trapiche. I consciously have to tell my brain to "slow down", so much so, that I have started to express these thoughts aloud and so, the conversation turns to drinking which makes me feel much better and so, I order another bottle to illustrate the pace of my drinking.

As I live here now, there will be other entries about BA. But, let me know your comments, and what you think about my new life. Do you think it's time I packed it all in, sorted myself out and got down to some hard work? Ha!



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Buenos Aires - La BocaBuenos Aires - La Boca
Buenos Aires - La Boca

..and then there's the not so colourful
Buenos Aires -  La BocaBuenos Aires -  La Boca
Buenos Aires - La Boca

The beloved game.
Buenos Aires -  La BocaBuenos Aires -  La Boca
Buenos Aires - La Boca

My gorgeous mother and me.
Buenos Aires -  La BocaBuenos Aires -  La Boca
Buenos Aires - La Boca

Just before we were interrupted by a load of football fans storming the area forcing us to flee our wine!!
Buenos Aires -  La BocaBuenos Aires -  La Boca
Buenos Aires - La Boca

This was one bus load of fans that drove by shouting and singing. I was advised to put my camera away!
Buenos Aires -  La BocaBuenos Aires -  La Boca
Buenos Aires - La Boca

I just liked this.
Buenos Aires -  San TelmoBuenos Aires -  San Telmo
Buenos Aires - San Telmo

Tango. This couple were onto a good thing, they did one dance and went round with a hat collecting fistfuls of notes. They weren't even that good.
San Telmo -TangoSan Telmo -Tango
San Telmo -Tango

My first Milonga. My first dance with an Argentinian man!
Buenos Aires - The day of the woman Buenos Aires - The day of the woman
Buenos Aires - The day of the woman

These women (there were thousands) along with men, are marching for women's rights. As a nice touch, all the restaurants, and cafe's give out roses. Please ignore the date in the bottom right, Mum's photo!
Buenos Aires - PalermoBuenos Aires - Palermo
Buenos Aires - Palermo

Some graffiti I used to walk past everyday.


28th May 2006

Joanna you are a talented writer and I am jealous of your photographs, I wish ours were this good. Mark

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