Gaucho Country

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July 19th 2006

Published: August 5th 2006

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Wall Graffitti in San Antonio

Depicting the image of a Guacho.

San Antonio is in the heart of the so-called Gaucho country of Argentina's green and grassy Pampas. It's a tiddly place but Lonely Planet will tell you it's where to go if you want to do the Gaucho experience. We rocked in thinking it was going to be brimming with opportunities to go Gaucho and play cowboys on a dude ranch.

We did see a few local men wearing the traditional Gaucho beret-type hat, we did hear also of Estancias (ranches) that could be visited if your wallet was the size of a Texan oil-driller's, we also saw lots of green grass with cows and horses grazing but we saw little other activity that could appeal to our touristy desires and our small malnourished wallets.

It certainly is very peaceful and serene and a lovely little place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Argentina's large hectic cities. The streets are fairly void of traffic, other than the odd bicycle. You can walk from one end to the other in only 20 mins and on your way, you will spot the odd local here or there, wearing the traditional Gaucho gear. There is one museum that comes

A Typically Quiet San Antonio Street

highly recommended but it was closed when we arrived so just typically, we missed out.

Gaucho's are legendary characters who symbolically represent a certain nationalism in Argentina. There image conjures up a certain romanticism, potrayed through José Hernández' epic poem Martín Fierro or Ricardo Güiraldes novel Don Segundo Sombra. Real Gauchos are in short supply these days, most of these wandering cattle men were replaced by European immigrants who took jobs in the large commercial operations on the Pampas. It wasn't until the free-roaming Gaucho days were over that their virtues were potrayed in literary works and their romantic image was born. Many San Antonians still cling onto Gaucho traditions but if you come thinking you're going to be walking into an Argentinian version of the Wild West, you'll be very much mistaken. The Gaucho is as legendary as it is a lost tradition - the only obvious signs of these celebrated figures are the numerous Artisan shops selling a variety of trinkets around the town.

In our single day in town, we simply strolled the streets and enjoyed the tranquility. Our peaceful walk didn't go unnoticed as we were soon followed by a group of dogs, all

Our Canine Companion

looking for some walking buddies to get some exercise with. As this group of dogs all tailed-off and headed back into town one-by-one, a single lady dog continued to follow us or more specifically, Laura. We think she sensed female hormones and acted as a protector for Laura. Whenever male dogs appeared she effectively told them where to go - there was to be no bum sniffing whilst she was around! For two hours, as we ambled through the streets and green spaces beyond the outer limits of the town (or should I say village), our four-legged canine friend continued to follow on our heels. After two hours spent in an internet cafe with our new best friend patiently waiting outside we started to get a little freaked by this new companionship, thrusted upon us. Instead of tearful goodbyes at the bus stop, we gave her the slip and spent the rest of the evening worrying everytime we saw another dog in case it was our buddy returning to pursue us again. You're probably thinking that based on such dedicated loyalty that we were harsh to ditch her so unceremoniously. We kind of agree but we didn't think she was