Buenos Aires

Published: July 12th 2016
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Skyline Skyline Skyline

This skyline is separate from the main downtown area. What is impressive about it is that just on the other side is an enormous nature preserve with miles of trails. The view from there has a km of wetland and cattails in the foreground with this skyline as the backdrop. I would have taken a photo, but I was running and didn't have my camera.
Nearly everyone I've met who has traveled to Buenos Aires comments about how it feels more like a European capital than like a South American one. In the regional context, this seems like a cultural disappointment, but as Latin American capitals go, the only ones that I've been to that compare (or that even are tolerable) are La Paz and La Habana.

The city is enormous (the population of LA), and each section is visually (and apparently culturally) unique. The guide on the mediocre historical walking tour pointed out how the predominantly Italian and French architecture are fused with other styles, and this extends to the atmosphere in the traditional bars and cafes, which I thought to be the best experiences in the city:

Wandering the streets near the docks to tentatively enter a cafe that hasn't been remodeled in 50 years since there is no need to replace the tile piso or brass taps, with a lovely house wine and a spread of tortas behind glass and three types of Spanish tortillas on the menu, which they mildly burn and leave the egg a little runny inside, a 50-something keep with his amigos who have looked forward all
Capital Building and ThinkerCapital Building and ThinkerCapital Building and Thinker

Like most countries, including mine, people have traditionally had difficulty harmonizing these two entities (understatement).
day to sit at the cafe stools at the low bar with more wine than coffee for an hour to talk about Messi, with no television to drone rehearsed commentary; then later in the rainy, early dusk a dimly lit bar with music as old as the building and only 4 patrons, who are old friends but don't see each other too often, but often enough, so the conversation never falters or crescendos, and stand up with chairs squeaking to tango for two songs, heavy and sad but never stiff- the winter wags on while I read and watch from the corner.

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Eva PeronEva Peron
Eva Peron

A wider shot would show the widest boulevard in the world - 9 de Julio, and I was there on 9 de Julio 2016, the 200th anniversary of independence- 19 lanes across, and impossible to cross in 1 light, even at a jog.

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