"Don't cry for me..."

---

He leaned into his partner, pressing forehead to forehead, closing his eyes; his partner placed a firm hand low on his back. The music started, and it was only them, in a long, dimly lit milonga, alone amid the twenty-odd other couples dancing tango.

It was 1 am, on a Wednesday night. Somewhere in Buenos Aires. And I sat against the wall, mesmerized by this dance, wishing I were an experienced milonguero who, with the lift of an eyebrow, could invite a dancing partner from across the room to join me in a tanda, or session, of tangos. But that will have to wait for another time. For that moment, however, I was content to watch.

The two men continued to dance, oblivious to all else.

***

I am not sure I could have had a more perfect two days back in Buenos Aires. Summery heat had replaced the torrential rains of two weeks ago, bringing life back into the streets - and allowing me to wander for miles across barrio after barrio, often stumbling on wonderful surprises.

Much of what makes this city a pleasure to experience is not so much specific sights - although there are plenty - but more the spirit of the place. It is seeing people drinking mate with friends, passing the communal cup around the circle with solemn ritual. There is tango, whether it be the organized men’s milonga to more impromptu performances, such as the one I witnessed in Plaza Dorregp in San Telmo. There is the mish-mash of architecture, from sparkling new structures to stately buildings that would be right at home in Paris. And of course there is the food. Indeed, my stomach also has been very happy here.

I had a café con leche (and a stupefyingly sweet cake layered in dulce de leche) at Las Violetas, a grand turn-of-the century coffeehouse. I had what might have been the best steak I have ever eaten at La Cabrera, where , in typical porteño fashion, I didn’t sit down for dinner until 10:30pm. And the ice-cream! I have fallen in love with the gelato here, especially the dulce de leche (it makes everything taste better!) flavor.

Sights-wise, perhaps the most intriguing that I have visited so far is the Cemeterio de Recoleta - which might win the award for strangest cemetery ever. It is less a cemetery than an ornate city of the dead, especially the rich and famous dead. Avenues of mini-mansion like mausoleums, in styles ranging from Gothic to Art Nouveau to Modernist, radiate across the enclosure. Some have little rooms in which to sit and pay homage to the family interred either below or right there in exposed coffins. Some of the less well-kept tombs actually have exposed, crumbling coffins. It’s all very macabre, but fixatingly fascinating. I spent hours going up and down the rows, ferreting out the famous Argentines that I could remember. (Of course, I looked for Eva “Evita” Perón’s resting place. Like everyone else!)

Speaking of Evita, serendipitously I managed to get swept into a guided tour (in Spanish) of the Casa Rosada, the presidential palace on Plaza de Mayo. Apparently, as part of the bicenntenial celebrations (the same celebrations for which the tall riggers I saw in Ushuaia were sailing) they were letting people walk through the building. So I got to stand on the same loggia from which Argentine presidents - and others, like Evita - have spoken to the crowds below. I shouldn’t have been surprised that “Don’t Cry for Me Argentina!” popped right into my head….and stayed there, playing over and over all afternoon.
No one needs to cry for me, though. Buenos Aires has treated me very well.

---

Comments

[Tina]

I'm so happy you had such a wonderful experience. This is like a farewell trip before you're off to your new experience this summer! p.s. The Argentinian beef is SO MUCH MORE of a turn on than the German pork shoulder-knuckle-whatever other part we were eating and sauerkraut...

[Ami]

Lovely last post! I am amazed to see Bs. As. in sunlight! Like your first jaunt there, all we had was rain or clouds. Such a lovely city - thanks for the walk down memory lane. :) And great pics! I love the ivy-covered statue of the mother feeding her child.