Esteros de Ibera, Wildlife Haven
November 12th 2010 Esteros de Ibera
Marathon days and nights on buses brought me from Curitiba in southern Brazil to Mercedes, Corrientes, Argentina, the jumping-off point for the remote Esteros del Ibera. I'd arrived on census day, and the city was deserted--everyone was home, waiting to be counted. I met a young, Swedish chimney sweeper, who'd just gotten off the swankier "cama (bed)" bus, and together, we set o
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