Welcome to Russia
June 14th 2002 Ulan Ude
I stepped off the train onto the platform of Russia, surprised that the country actually did exist. I had somehow grown up with the notion that this was a no man's land, some verboten territory of inhumane machines. Never had I the slightest dream of ever coming here to this shabby train station occupied by louche loiterers. Yet here I was. And this was Russia.
Although the g
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