It's all downhill from here...
March 6th 2005 Last night, in the middle of the night, I woke up in the tent , headache gone, and needing to pee. Disengaging from my sleeping bag, I emerged into fresh cool moonlight and walked through sparse trees to the edge of the plateau where we had camped. Standing there, the lights of the village spread out in the valley below me, stars shining clear and bright above me, the misery of the previous day
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