The village Mao.

The village Mao is probably the furthest off the beaten track I've been, since no tourist had ever been there before. The only way to get there is on a two-wheeler (or by foot) since one has to cross several rivers riding on rotten planks (which excludes heavy motorbikes as well). All the villagers use bicycles to cross the overgrown cattletracks that lead to and from Mao some 20km from the mainroad. The turnoff is unmarked so one need to ask the locals for directions. Of course we had to talk to the village chief as we arrived and ask for permission to camp, and the whole village was in turmoil as they saw us. He explained that the last Muzungus that had been in the village was the Germans. Oh, Overlanders, I thought. No, he explained. The Germans had passed through the village while building a telephone-line to Kasanga, during his grandfathers rule, before the first world war. The village had also survived the impact of Western missionaries, Peace Corps or other volunteers, which is a novelty in Africa these days.