Jammu and Amritsar
June 8th 2007 As I tipped one of the managers of the houseboat as I left (with all the money I had on me) he counted it out, smiled sadly and said "i am sorry the service was not good enough".
But no matter. I was leaving Srinagar, I was leaving the vicious circle of guided tours and touts, I had no hotel booked in Jammu, no-one to meet me at the station and take me somewhere expensive. THings were going to
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