Windhorse Flag above Traling Gompa

October 12th 2005
After rushing from Serta to get to Xining, I arrive at Qinghai Nationalities University to study the Golok dialect only to find out that the university has two weeks of vacation: "sports week" where classes are suspended and then the national holiday. I decide to use this time to explore nearby Tibetan areas and to return to Golok, this time from the north. Golok is home to eastern Tibet's warrior ... read more

Asia » China » Tibet

For centuries China stood as a leading civilization, outpacing the rest of the world in the arts and sciences, but in the 19th and early 20th centuries, the country was beset by civil unrest, major famines, military defeats, and foreign occupation. A... ... read more

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Holly G

Yumtso

Tashi Delek! Before leaving New York, a colleague warned me that some scholars get "lost in the field". They leave for a stint of research and never return. Maybe they wind up as NGO workers or dharma bums or perennial travelers. While not my intention, I already feel far from the academic world of the classroom and conference hall, the weekly grind of paper writing and paper grading, daily stints at my favorite cafes in Cambridge, and hours roaming the stacks of Widener library. Here is an account of my adventures and tribulations during a year of language study and research, based in Xining ... full info

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