Perfume Pagoda
March 22nd 2007 After passing the Perfume Pagoda - we're still not sure exactly what it is- we walked up thousands of steep mud coated steps swarming with Buddhist pilgrims to a sacred cave near the top of a mountain. After a few hours of incessant evading of gaudy glittery bauble sellers, we were dying for a bit of piece and quiet. Not possible. There would have been well over 20,000 people on the river and on t
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