Sept. 22, 2011: Rules do not always apply

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Still at anchor: Moorea

Crew: Cyrus, Brett & Colby: Surfing and in bliss, Mac & Peter: returning from hike to rock spire on island: Brooke: returned from lone snorkel & writing

Yesterdays note: I forgot my sunset cheese, which was what we were doing upon me writing the log. I went to the bow for yoga... at the end of my yoga session I have my "seated meditation"... The voice in my head went something like this:
"just listen to my breath" "Relax" "I want cheese" "and olives" "need to stop thinking about cheese and think of something wise" "I could use that baguette we got this morning with the cheese" "ok.. relax, focus on my breath, think of nothing" "blueberry jam would be nice with that Bree"

And thus, I gave up on enlightenment and enjoyed a nice cheese and olive platter at sunset with my fellow crew. Though I may not have ended up wiser.. the guys were happy that I walked up on deck with a well thought out cheese-platter at sunset.

The winds look good for a departure tomorrow. This has been a long sunny Polynesian day... from the sunrise over the giant rock spires of Moorea that stand guard over the bay to the 2 young humpback whales (the same individuals we spotted yesterday on our arrival) who came into the bay and circled us with spinner dolphins dancing around them... for FOUR hours! They rolled at the surface and opportunistically opened their mouths and scooped up some shiny somethings that the dolphins had been herding carefully. (I wonder if the dolphins felt cheated since they were doing all the work, or if it was a peace offering between species). There has been glassy surf, beautiful snorkeling and Mac & Peter hiked up to one of the spires overlooking the bay. The radio crackled to life. "Volpaia?" I answer.. I know it is Peter on the radio "This is Volpaia".. "Uh yeah! We are on top of one of these ridges! Look up! We are here!". I stare up at the 50 or so spires, ridges and cliffs sculpting the island. "Ummm.. where?". And they proceed to explain how to count spires over to the one they are perched upon... and I see them. Tiny waving ants upon their hill. "Take our Picture!" he asks. and I do.

The outrigger canoe is being paddled by one man in a woven palm hat. Two others are sitting peacefully in the boat, surfboards in hand. "Bonjour!" I yell at them... they paddle over "Beautiful boat" they say in beautiful French accents. They are Polynesian with glowing tans and wavy bleached hair that was meant to be black, but so much sun has faded it into salty mops. Cyrus comments on their boat being beautiful as well. It is a very rough outrigger, but they beam with pride. The shorter man in the middle asks if we surf. Cyrus and I are at the dinghy.. I am about to take him to the surf break just off our stern ... he has a long-board in hand. "yes.. you have a beautiful wave". They beam "Yes yes! It is small today, but beautiful!... welcome to Polynesia!" and they paddle off. We soon meet them at the surf spot and they smile as they finish off a ganga cigarette, hold a hand up in greetings and dive in.

For those of you familiar with surfing, you know that there are 2 mind sets. One is that all waves are for everyone and should be shared by a system called a 'line up'. It is like a conveyor belt for surfers,,, you basically keep in order and the one closest to the take off point, takes the wave, then paddles back to the back of the line up. Very orderly indeed. Of course there are the smaller waves and set waves and there is various ways of telling if you are the one who can take the wave or not. Eye contact, body language... the dude in front of you falls and if you can, grab it! Don't let that wave go to wards shore alone!

The second is unfortunately the product of the surf culture becoming main stream. More and more people are taking to the water with surfboards. This belief is that if you live here.. it is your wave and anyone visiting it, has no rights. They either can be passed by in the line up, ignored or sometimes even chased aggressively out of the water. So like dogs in the doggie park, it is keen for dogs to learn how to read others behaviors, territories and know how to play nice, or a dog fight can ensue. It is the same at a surf break.. they must watch, calculate, understand some cultural signals, or a surfers worse nightmare... you will get passed by, dropped in on (another surfer grabbing the wave you are already on and running you over) and basically, you will not catch waves... ever.

The wonderful thing about this area of Polynesia is that this is a friendly neighborly break. In other words, the surfers are proud of their wave and welcome others. But they also blend the two types of surfing together and makes an entertaining social situation on the break. The local boys all hang out and chat, relax and when they really want to catch a wave, they do. No matter who's turn it was.. they weren't paying attention to the classic line up system. They don't care. They just felt like catching the wave.. so they did. They do pay attention to reactions. If one were to get their panties in a wad and decide to get upset by being passed by because they were trying to implement the 'line up' system.. if the surfers do not laugh about it or be relaxed .. if you fail to have a good time.. guess what. they will find a way for one of the guys in the group to take that persons wave.. every..single.. time. Being that Cyrus, Colby and Brett are the type to just laugh along and relax and chat... next thing you know they are not only allowing them to catch waves, but cheering them on,,, yelling "This one is for you!" And thrilling at their good rides. The few out there today who got a bit upset and tense when passed by... were passed by every time. They no longer could surf there. They were not happy. They did not see what it is really about. Those who are relaxed and just take it as it is... get to surf alongside the locals and have made new friends. Sometimes, I suppose, it is good to ignore the rules and just enjoy one's self.. because, after all, it pays off here.

Our last day all together as a crew at once. Tomorrow we head over 600 nm to the Cook Islands. The crew will be on 24 hour watches, so we will pass each other by and hopefully have 1 meal a day together, but overall... today is our last day together, awake... all at the same time.



~Brooke

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